Hyke Designers Yoshihara and Ode: Innovating Military Workwear

Hideaki Yoshihara and Yukiko Ode may have a fondness for the past, but their designs are far from sentimental. With decades of experience reinterpreting old military workwear, the Hyke designers have established themselves as masters in the field. This season, however, they showcased a willingness to push boundaries and explore new territories.

Named “Reminiscing,” the latest collection from Hyke feels fresh, forward-looking, and relevant to modern life. Drawing inspiration from “Amekaji,” the Japanese term for “American Casual,” Yoshihara and Ode delved into the rugged workwear, knitted polos, and ombré buffalo plaid shirts that were popular in Japan during the 1980s and ’90s, putting their own unique spin on these classic pieces.

The collection featured sharp pleated shorts layered over wide-legged sheer black chiffon trousers, creating a striking visual effect that flowed gracefully with each step. Shirt dresses and ribbed trousers added to the ethereal quality of the garments, showcasing the designers’ skill in creating clothes that come to life in motion. “The movement was very important,” Ode explained during a virtual walkthrough of the collection. “It takes a lot of trial and error to achieve that flow.”

Integrated into the collection were practical pieces from Hyke’s collaboration with The North Face, set to be released in the spring. Additionally, asymmetric layered tank tops made from a unique stretchy mesh fabric created by Japanese textile maker Ono Meriyasu added a contemporary touch to the lineup.

Hyke has always been known for its pragmatic approach to design, creating versatile pieces that can be worn in a variety of settings. This latest collection exemplifies this philosophy, offering garments that seamlessly transition from day to night. While the idea of “desk to dinner dressing” may seem like a thing of the past, Hyke proves that it is still possible with their versatile and stylish pieces.