Your skin may appear redder or darker than its usual shade, and itchiness is a prevalent symptom. “The texture often becomes bumpier and rougher,” notes Dr. Sommerlad. Individuals with sensitive skin are particularly vulnerable to an impaired skin barrier, making it crucial for them to prioritize its strength and health.
What other factors influence our skin barrier?
“Numerous factors can compromise the barrier,” explains Dr. David Jack. “Over-exfoliation is a major issue often linked to excessive use of products,” he adds. Everyday practices, such as washing with very hot water or skipping daily SPF, can gradually diminish its function.
Moreover, internal aspects like stress, insufficient sleep, hormonal fluctuations, and poor diet can all diminish barrier resilience. Aging plays a role too, according to aesthetician Sarah Chapman. “As we age, the skin’s ability to produce lipids, ceramides, and hydrators decreases, and these elements are essential for a healthy skin barrier.”
How to restore your skin barrier
Start by identifying and eliminating potential triggers affecting your skin barrier. “Simplify your skincare regimen,” advises aesthetician Katharine Mackenzie Paterson. “Focus on a cleanser, moisturizer, and SPF—remove any retinoids or acids, especially.” For cleansing, she recommends a nourishing, calming, fragrance-free cleansing milk or cream, and advises consistency in your routine as it can take weeks to achieve improvement. “Things might worsen before they get better,” cautions Dr. Craythorne.
Opt for moisturizers rich in ceramides and incorporate hyaluronic acid into your regimen for soothing and hydration, suggests Dr. Sommerlad. “Look for barrier-boosting components like ceramides, niacinamide, and fatty acids,” says Dr. Marco Nicoloso, an aesthetic expert at Ouronyx. “These ingredients can enhance hydration and fortify the barrier.” To reduce inflammation and kickstart the repair process, aesthetician Shane Cooper advocates for red light therapy—using at-home LED masks or professional sessions—and combining it with rich skincare products to replenish moisture.
Gentle treatment is key
It may seem straightforward, but in addition to simplifying your regimen, avoid any manual exfoliation methods, like abrasive washcloths or scrubs. “Utilize lukewarm water to prevent further irritation,” advises Dr. Mahto, who mentions that results will not be immediate. “You can generally expect to see an improvement in your barrier in about three to four weeks; for more prolonged damage, it could take over three months.”
Gradually reintroducing active ingredients
When your skin is back to health, reintroduce active ingredients slowly. “Incorporate one active at a time—for instance, use retinoids for several weeks before adding in vitamin C or other exfoliants,” Dr. Sommerlad recommends. If you face chronic skin barrier issues, opt for gentler actives. You might consider replacing retinol with retinaldehyde for a milder approach. When using acids, look for PHAs instead of AHAs, and use fluid-based sunscreens, which are easier to apply than creams,” adds Dr. Sommerlad.
Preventing future damage
“Maintaining a healthy skin barrier is about balance and moderation,” says Mackenzie Paterson. “Avoid past triggers and refrain from frequently changing your product lineup.” Adopt a holistic view towards your skincare routine and pay attention to your skin, especially when introducing new active ingredients. Chapman emphasizes the importance of starting slowly and giving your skin time to adapt.
