Freddy Coomes and Matt Empringham, the creative minds behind Aletta, are establishing a new trend in London’s fashion scene. They named their quirky startup after Coomes’s mother, and as recent graduates from Central Saint Martins (class of ’24), they are infusing classic English eccentricity with a vibrant and fresh perspective. Aletta is still in its early stages, having launched only their second collection, and the duo is reveling in the artistic freedom that comes from being experimental and unconfined by traditional design conventions.
“Our approach isn’t so much a declaration about Britishness, which is often a tangled mess; rather, it’s a reflection of who we are as individuals,” Empringham expressed. “Our work is eclectic and, at times, visually peculiar. We shine brightest when creating pieces that feel authentic—much of our design process is rooted in making and improvisation.”
Despite their desire to sidestep conventions, there’s an undeniably British preppiness in their designs. Their debut collection features distinctive A-line mini polo dresses that stand out at renowned retail spaces like Dover Street Market, inviting intrigued customers from afar. Coomes commented, “The journey to create these pieces is anything but ordinary.” The allure of their clothing lies in both its unique characteristics and high quality. “We focus on craftsmanship,” stated Empringham. “Though often overused, our inspiration draws from domestic crafts—while we may not possess the leatherworking expertise of high-end brands like Bottega Veneta, we’ve developed thoughtful techniques that resonate through our work.”
Employing an innovative home-craft material known as Kraft-tex, the designers have created garments with unconventional shapes, angles, and textures by bonding cotton to paper. “Now, we’ve started bonding suede to paper, creating a fully handmade card-paper-backed jacket for this latest collection,” Empringham detailed. They also introduced a pair of brown shorts that can remarkably “stand up on their own.” The intriguing bag featured in their promotional material was “fused with leather,” Empringham explained. “Initially, we contemplated crafting it into a shoulder bag, but decided it looked more captivating in its unfinished state without any stitching.”
When discussing their design philosophy, the creators often venture into conceptual territory. “There’s a subconscious notion that everything needs to adhere to a logic, but we purposefully chose to abandon that structure,” Coomes explained. “We believe garments don’t need to adhere to a singular truth.” At its core, their approach highlights the importance of maintaining a personal and analog creative process, which they highly value. Their previous work has drawn parallels to cartoon cutouts or playful toys. Notably, their early student creation—a metal rugby shirt assembled from Meccano, a classic British construction toy—generated considerable buzz online.
This collection also features playful modifications, including cashmere and mohair sweaters that were manipulated through shrinking techniques, resulting in tight, wrinkled waistbands. “They began as oversized pieces, but we found the shrinkage imbued each sweater with its own distinct personality instead of showcasing just another luxury product,” Empringham reflected.
The collection this season is styled alongside a vibrant red polka-dot midi dirndl and yellow Grenson shoe-boots, evoking the wonderfully awkward charm reminiscent of Princess Diana during her “Shy Di” phase in the early ‘80s. The designers also cited an unexpected influence from the 1976 opera production Einstein on the Beach by Philip Glass and Robert Wilson, which they explored on YouTube. This led to eccentric combinations such as gray sweatpants paired with suspenders, layered unexpectedly with a neon babydoll over a white T-shirt.
These amalgamations may seem illogical, yet for Coomes and Empringham, therein lies the joy of their work. Having interned with fashion luminary Jonathan Anderson—Coomes at Loewe and Empringham at JW Anderson—they race forward with Aletta. They’re nurturing this passion project while balancing freelance obligations and jobs outside the mainstream fashion industry. Acknowledging the challenges of maintaining independence within fashion today, they remain optimistic and eager to pursue their creative endeavors. “We genuinely enjoy what we do,” Empringham shared. “We don’t want to be seen as adversaries of fashion or critics of an allegedly broken industry. If we were unhappy, we’d simply choose a different path.”
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