A flower symbolizes beauty, but in the hands of Franco-Turkish designer Burc Akyol, it metamorphoses into a powerful emblem of resistance, rebellion, and hope. His creative vision embraces the fleeting joys of pride, passion, dance, and intimacy, captivating audiences with depth and resonance.
For his spring collection, aptly titled “Gülistan”—meaning “land of roses” in Persian—Akyol embarked on a deeply personal journey of self-expression. His inspiration draws upon themes of love and acceptance, aiming to cultivate openness and an embrace of “otherness” through the lens of fashion.
Backstage prior to the runway presentation, Akyol articulated his preference for the French term “évident” over the prevailing concept of minimalism, stating, “These are clothes that feel like they’ve belonged to you forever, like a signature.” He exemplified this philosophy with look 20: a delicate lace minidress layered beneath a voluminous leather trench coat that transitions into a bomber style. This ensemble recalls his first-day high school look, infused with the same fervor he felt at that time—“I felt powerful, like nothing could stop me,” he reminisced. The elegance continued into evening wear, showcased in a luxurious chocolate silk gazar, complemented by a black bustier dress adorned with burnished gold fabric and dangling earrings crafted from real rosebuds, artfully spray-painted to shimmer in gold.
Akyol attributes much of his design prowess to the vibrant mentorship of industry leaders like John Galliano at Dior and Esteban Cortázar. He reflects, “Their briefs were just alive,” which inspired him to translate emotions and narratives into physical garments. Drawing from childhood memories of Romani children from his school experiences, the vivacity of Istanbul’s Sulukule neighborhood, and his background in dance—specifically flamenco this season—Akyol crafted compelling pieces that showcased his exceptional tailoring skills. The collection highlighted evening suits featuring scarf-like panels on jackets and trousers, allowing wearers to cinch or leave them trailing freely. Even some of the collection’s more avant-garde pieces, such as trousers with flounce-back design, showcased a captivating movement, although they pushed the boundaries of everyday wear.
In terms of practical dressing, the collection also included reimagined staple items—blouses, sweaters, and tuxedo denims—that pay homage to previous collections. This initiative is part of Akyol’s collaboration with eBay’s Endless Runway project, championing sustainability through circular fashion. “It’s important to me that we gather staple pieces that are still in my wardrobe, and to show that they live on and retain value,” he emphasized. Fans and fashion enthusiasts alike will quickly recognize which timeless pieces they wish to incorporate into their wardrobes as they transition into spring and beyond.
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