This afternoon, the Polo presentation was hosted in a chic apartment just five minutes away from Madeleine. The striking waitstaff, dressed in pristine white Polo uniforms, were offering Madeleine cakes. I indulged, only to be surprised by the cake’s initial kick on my palate—it was… salty. Both unusual and nostalgic, it was surprisingly delicious. Proust would certainly have had a reaction. Yet, that salty confection encapsulated the ongoing challenge for Polo’s design team each season: crafting a new collection that remains true to the brand identity while also introducing enough novelty to inspire renewed interest.
This season, Polo discovered its creative muse in Jamaica, a theme inspired by Ricky Lauren and her numerous trips there with Ralph. As noted in his 2007 memoir: “I wasn’t drawn to the girl with excessive makeup and high heels. I preferred the one in jeans and a white shirt with rolled sleeves, donning her boyfriend’s jacket. That’s the girl I’m attracted to. That’s the girl I married—Ricky.”
This practical eclecticism was evident in the thoughtfully curated collection that embraced various Polo elements. Khaki three-piece suits accented with country-inspired features were paired with paisley patterned tie scarves and roomy, loosely cinched belts with chunky buckles. This season’s version of the white shirt appeared worn over a fringed leather skirt and complemented by sandy yellow shoes. A green madras dress, featuring a diamond cutout at the waist, was crafted from silk and matched with flip flops graced with the pony logo. The collection also showcased a range of long, tapered trousers, where a panel of fabric arched from the exterior of the right angle to the belt buckle, resembling an artistic take on traditional Thai fisherman pants.
Beaded embellishments, a vintage Polo Sport surf-style logo tee, and tie-dye as well as paisley sarongs enhanced the collection’s beachy vibe. A standout piece was a Polo cable knit that transitioned into a full-length skirt, serving as the collection’s most daring salty madeleine. Additional subtle updates included printed cotton gardening gloves and a white cable cardigan with green edges, styled like a spirited cape over a wide-check linen shirt, showcasing an adept reinterpretation of the classic Polo aesthetic.
