Pharrell WilliamsPhoto: Chia Chong
André Leon Talley was an irreplaceable figure. The exhibition Style Is Forever, currently showcasing at SCAD Atlanta, unfolds an emotional journey through his extraordinary life, narrated via his garments, photographs, and cherished experiences—many featuring him alongside eminent personalities—curated by Rafael Brauer Gomes. Stepping inside, attendees face a spectacular assembly of Andrès, standing tall and proud (with striking visages crafted by SCAD graduate Stephen Hayes), adorned in an array of pinstripes, classic evening wear, vintage eiderdown coats by Norma Kamali from the early ’80s, and a reimagined Chanel jacket by Karl Lagerfeld.
Raised in the Deep South of North Carolina, André grew up during a time when racial discrimination was a harsh reality for Black individuals. Instead of living with his mother, he was nurtured by his cherished grandmother, whose job as a maid at Duke University made their lives complicated yet filled with love. She meticulously ensured his shirts were perfectly ironed, and Sunday services were a ritual that shaped his sense of both fashion and faith. Despite humble beginnings, André pursued higher education at North Carolina Central University and later obtained a Master’s degree in French Literature from Brown University. His journey brought him to New York, where he began an internship at the Costume Institute, igniting a mentorship with Diana Vreeland, the eminence grise of the Metropolitan Museum, who recognized André’s fervor for fashion and its historical context.
Diane von Furstenberg vividly remembers her first encounter with him: “I met André when he arrived in New York,” she recalls. “It had to be in the early days—around 1974 or ’75 while he was interning for Diana Vreeland. I was hosting a party in my Park Avenue apartment, and he was downstairs capturing photos of guests as they arrived. He was this tall, slender figure wearing a pink satin cape! That’s how I first saw him. After that, we became incredibly close friends—especially during his time in Paris.” Although it was an immediate connection for Diane—who was among his first Black friends—it was a bond that endured both the high and low points of their lives.
After his time with Vreeland and the vibrant atmosphere of the Costume Institute, André found himself immersed in Andy Warhol’s Factory, thanks to her introduction. He was tasked with answering the phone, a seemingly mundane chore, yet within Warhol’s realm, it became a gateway to a multitude of influential personalities. For someone as dedicated as André, this opened doors to icons like Jacqueline Onassis, Rudolf Nureyev, Elizabeth Taylor, and Liza Minnelli—the roster is endless.
From the Factory, André was recruited by John Fairchild to manage the Paris office of Women’s Wear Daily. “I always credit John Fairchild,” Diane admits, “for appointing him as the Paris correspondent for Women’s Wear Daily. This opportunity was monumental. Around that same time, Givenchy showcased stunning Black models. I would often stay at the Plaza Athénée before settling in Paris, and André would come to visit, pretending to be an African king while we enjoyed our afternoon tea together downstairs. We made countless memories! I’ll never forget that famous Friday night at Maxim’s where black-tie was required. He arrived from a show—Karl Lagerfeld’s perhaps—dressed in a cashmere robe over a pristine white shirt and fitted black tie. Simply breathtaking. Such elegance and grace.”