You may recognize chef and writer Gabrielle Hamilton for two primary reasons: her renowned Manhattan eatery Prune (which closed due to COVID) or her bold and heartfelt 2012 memoir, Blood, Bones & Butter: The Inadvertent Education of a Reluctant Chef, detailing her unconventional upbringing in a converted silk mill in Pennsylvania and her ascent in New York’s culinary world.
In her newest memoir, Next of Kin, Hamilton shifts her focus to deeply personal themes, exploring the loss of two brothers, a fraught relationship with her sister, her intricate ties with her father, and the unexpected tenderness that arises from caring for her elderly mother, who was once a source of fear. Hamilton’s distinctive and lively prose is present throughout Next of Kin, making it a poignant reflection on familial complexities that many only begin to address in adulthood.
This week, Vogue interviewed Hamilton about her transition from food writing, her daily life as a spouse, dog owner, and empty-nester, her reflections on writing about family, and the process of finding clarity in the midst of challenging revisions.
Vogue: How do you feel about releasing a project that’s less focused on food than your past works?
Gabrielle Hamilton: I feel great about it. This project has been an experiment for me—a lingering question I’ve contemplated: “Are you a writer, Gabrielle, or merely a food writer?” I wanted to challenge myself to create a book devoid of food or recipes, and while I’ve accomplished that, time will tell how it’s received! In all my food writing, the more profound stories have always been simmering beneath the surface, so I thought, “Let’s strip away the food and delve into the core narrative.”
What does your life look like now that the book is published?
Book publishing has seen significant changes since my last experience, so there aren’t extensive tours anymore due to costs. Instead, I focus on podcasts for engaging conversations. Additionally, I teach writing at the University of Pennsylvania each fall, which keeps me busy. I run Prune as a restaurant-by-appointment, and my life revolves around being an empty-nester with two kids in college, my beloved wife, and our dear dog—though I’ll admit I sometimes find the dog a bit trying, but that’s part of the package!