The Growing Food Scene of St. John in the U.S. Virgin Islands
Dr. Sewer, a local food enthusiast, reflects on the evolution of the food scene in St. John, U.S. Virgin Islands. She recalls a time when finding authentic local cuisine was a challenge, as American food dominated the culinary landscape. However, she now celebrates the diverse and vibrant food offerings that have emerged on the island.
To experience the true flavors of the Virgin Islands, Dr. Sewer recommends a visit to Hillside Terrace in Cruz Bay. Here, visitors can savor dishes like conch stew, salt fish, and fungi—a traditional cornmeal-based dumpling infused with okra, salt, and butter. For a memorable evening, she suggests ending the night at Mooie’s Bar, an Afro-Caribbean establishment founded in 1956 by Senator Theovald E. “Mooie” Moorhead and currently run by his daughter, Theodora Moorehead. The bar is renowned for its rum punch and features captivating wall murals by Theodora, along with a stylish collection of merchandise that serves as the perfect island souvenir.
One common thread among St. John’s top dining spots is the use of fresh produce sourced from Coral Bay Organic Farm and Garden Center. Established over 30 years ago by Hugo and Josephine Roller, this 18-acre farm in Carolina Valley supplies a variety of mixed greens, kales, herbs, and arugulas to local restaurants. The couple’s commitment to organic farming stands out in a region where agriculture faces challenges due to rising land costs and historical agricultural practices that prioritized sugarcane over food crops.
Hugo reflects on the island’s complex agricultural history, which has seen shifts from sugarcane monoculture under Danish rule to reliance on mainland imports after becoming a U.S. territory in 1917. Despite these obstacles, Hugo and Josephine persist in their mission, driven by a passion for organic agriculture and a desire to support the local community. They envision a future agritourism project on the farm, providing visitors with a firsthand look at sustainable farming practices, pending permit approval.
