Rediscovering Brillat-Savarin’s Legendary Turkey Hunt
“Haute for the Holidays,” by Jeffrey Steingarten, was originally published in the November 1994 issue of Vogue.
For more of the best from Vogue’s archive, sign up for our Nostalgia newsletter here.
Two hundred years ago, in October 1794, the renowned French gastronome and magistrate Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin embarked on a legendary turkey hunt in the untamed wilderness of Connecticut. This historic event marked a significant moment in Franco-American culinary history, capturing the essence of abundance and adventure in the New World.
Brillat-Savarin, seeking refuge from the tumultuous French Revolution, found himself immersed in a land of plenty, teeming with a rich bounty of flora and fauna. From sweet corn and squash to lobsters and oysters, the American landscape offered a cornucopia of ingredients for the discerning palate.
In his seminal work Physiology of Taste, Brillat-Savarin recounts the fateful hunt that culminated in the capture of a wild turkey, a feat that would go down in history. Accompanied by his companion Mr. King, the gastronome set out on horseback from Hartford, Connecticut, to indulge in a sumptuous feast at their host’s farm.
The following day, armed with rifles and a spirit of adventure, Brillat-Savarin and Mr. King ventured into the virgin forest in pursuit of game. Their hunt yielded a variety of delicacies, from plump grey partridges to elusive grey squirrels. However, it was the encounter with a flock of wild turkeys that would define Brillat-Savarin’s legacy.
As the turkeys took flight, a lazy straggler became the target of Brillat-Savarin’s precise aim. With a single shot, he brought down the majestic bird, securing his place in culinary folklore. Despite Mr. King’s unsuccessful attempts to bag a turkey of his own, the camaraderie and thrill of the hunt left an indelible mark on both men.
Lost in the vast wilderness, the intrepid hunters were eventually rescued by the melodious voices of their host’s daughters, adding a touch of serendipity to an already memorable adventure.
