Emilia Wickstead: A Tribute to Girl Gangs and Youthful Spirit
Emilia Wickstead, the renowned fashion designer, recently unveiled her pre-fall collection with a nod to girl gangs and the youthful spirit of teenage rebellion. As she leafed through the lookbook, she paused on an image of a trio of women clad in knee-length dresses in varying shades of power blue. “I just love a girl gang,” Wickstead mused, showcasing her affinity for strong, independent women.
Wickstead’s collections often draw inspiration from different milieus of women, whether it’s intellectuals in 1930s Paris or the circle of creative women she encounters in London and New York. This season, she found inspiration in Françoise Sagan’s Bonjour Tristesse and the 1958 film adaptation, as well as her own experience as the mother of a teenager. “I wanted the spirit of it to be about these youthful, playful, selfish, raging, fascinating teenagers—these young women finding themselves and figuring out how to present themselves to the world,” she explained.
The collection exuded a sprightly feel with a fresh palette of icy blue, butter yellow, and crimson. Whimsical touches like tequila sunrise stripes and illustrated prints of sailboats added a playful charm to the designs. Floral jacquards and lace details added a touch of sophistication, while dresses with fabric extensions and shawls draped over shoulders paid homage to the film that inspired the collection.
The setting for the collection was a fishmonger’s on Golborne Road in west London, a playful nod to the south of France setting of Bonjour Tristesse. The versatile designs were showcased against this backdrop, with breezy cotton day dresses and cardigans styled in a nonchalant fashion. Wickstead aimed to create looks that are easy to wear and charming, perfect for throwing into a suitcase for a spontaneous getaway.
Since launching her brand in 2008, Wickstead has built a loyal clientele who have grown up alongside her. With this collection, she looks forward to dressing not only her original clients but also their teenage daughters, embodying a timeless sense of style and sophistication.

