David Koma’s Dark Romantic Fantasia for Blumarine Inspired by Venice
This season, David Koma found himself captivated by the enchanting allure of Venice. It’s no surprise, as the city has a long history of captivating even the most discerning visitors. “It brings out the artist in me,” Koma remarked, fully embracing Venice’s mysterious nighttime charm and shadowy glamour. Masked balls, elegant debauchery, a hint of fetishism, and sensuality cloaked in opulence were all woven into Koma’s dark romantic vision for Blumarine.
He drew inspiration from a 1992 campaign shot by Albert Watson in Venice, as well as the iconic imagery of Helmut Newton, a longtime influence on the label. For Koma, Newton’s eroticism was not about shocking viewers but rather about control. This concept materialized in the form of structured hourglass silhouettes, a continuation of the corsetry that has become a signature of his work at Blumarine. Mini crinolines adorned with lace, fastened with intricate gilded buttons shaped like masks and lion heads, paid homage to Venetian symbols.
The brand’s beloved roses took on a darker, fiercer persona, transformed into three-dimensional plissé rosettes adorning scanty minidresses or intricately stitched onto sheer georgette slips layered beneath flowing capes reminiscent of Venice’s traditional cloak, the tabarro. Shearling boleros patterned with the Harlequin’s diamond motif, inspired by carnival costumes, were draped over lace briefs and repurposed as luxurious blankets.
To heighten the boudoir-inspired drama, black lingerie bodysuits peeked out from under sweeping coats against the backdrop of ancient palazzos or emerging from the Venetian fog at dawn, when the city exudes a sense of clandestine allure. Bold flashes of flame red punctuated a predominantly black and white palette, casting aside the occasional hints of dusty pink and pale blue reminiscent of fading Venetian stucco.
For Koma, Venice is not about romantic courtship or moonlit serenades on the lagoon; it embodies desire, lust, and the thrill of getting lost in its winding, treacherous calli, preferably with your heels slightly askew as the sun rises.
