Giuseppe Di Morabito’s latest collection draws inspiration from T. S. Eliot’s masterpiece, “The Waste Land,” which was written during a time of personal crisis for the poet. Just like Eliot found beauty in the midst of turmoil, Di Morabito’s collection is a constellation of fragments that reflect the beauty that can emerge from difficult times. The designer explained, “I was struck by how that kind of beauty came from a place of deep crisis. It made me think of something that can be beautiful even when you’re not able to explain it.”
The lookbook for the collection is a mix of AI-generated images and analogue photographs taken by Di Morabito himself on his Leica camera. This juxtaposition of opposing forces aims to break the artificiality and showcase the realness of both clothes and memories. The photos in the lookbook feature exotic locations like Namibia, Stromboli, Botswana, Ibiza, and Sri Lanka, adding a sense of wanderlust to the collection.
The garments in the collection embody a sense of romanticism and distance, with capes made of pinstriped jacquard, trenches in python-printed leather, and shearlings stamped with animal motifs. Silhouettes are expansive yet sharp, with military influences and fitted waists. Di Morabito’s designs are rooted in menswear but adapted for the modern woman, although he admits to enjoying seeing men wear his creations as well.
The collection exudes both protection and seduction, with jersey corsets, feather-trimmed cloaks, and bold front pockets on short coats. Accessories play a crucial role in extending the metaphor, with rhinestoned hairpins that double as fasteners, silk organza flowers adorning collars and heels, and organic-shaped piercings that serve as functional closures. The color palette remains subdued, featuring earthy neutrals with pops of petrol, lilac, and pale blue.
The final image of the collection features a woman in a voluminous protective cape, baring her legs in a seductive pose. Di Morabito likens her to the Cumaean Sibyl, a figure condemned to eternity yet carrying the weight of history on her body. This reflects the designer’s belief that clothes, like memories, hold onto something significant. The title of the collection, “Ci fermammo sotto il colonnato e procedemmo verso il sole,” encapsulates the essence of the collection, hinting at movement and change amidst uncertainty.
In a world filled with chaos and ambiguity, Giuseppe Di Morabito’s collection offers a glimpse into the beauty that can arise from moments of crisis. Each piece is a memory or a tool to hold onto something, embodying a sense of history and resilience. The designer’s unique vision and storytelling create a narrative that challenges us to rediscover who we are in the present moment.
