Fashion presentations rarely evoke screams of horror, even with the most unsettling collections. However, Mikio Sakabe is adept at provoking such reactions.
This season, Sakabe showcased his designs in a 90-year-old Japanese house rumored to be haunted and currently serving as an escape room for horror enthusiasts. The house featured 10 dimly lit rooms, each occupied by one or two models with their faces obscured by hair, dressed in Sakabe’s contrastingly cute attire. Some models were curled up on the floor, trembling in fear, or sat facing the wall; others sporadically banged on walls or hid in closets before unexpectedly leaping out, causing startled screams. In one room, a red glowing alcove concealed a man menacingly holding a crowbar, his threatening expression broadcast on a fuzzy television.
Sakabe, a fervent horror enthusiast, has been exploring the intersection of Japanese horror and fashion. He remarked, “Even as an adult, entering a place like that—a slightly eerie room—can easily transport you into that unique world, which I find fascinating. I feel that horror is the easiest way to enter a fantasy world.”
In the dimly lit, windowless rooms, discerning the clothing details was challenging, but the focus wasn’t solely on the garments. Sakabe recognizes that consumers are drawn more to the universe surrounding the clothes than the clothes themselves. He explained, “Recently, I’ve been focusing more on conveying a sense of the world I create, rather than just showing the clothes. People who want to see the clothes can come to the showroom; I think experiencing this unique world first will leave a more lasting impression. If it was too bright, the clothes would be visible, but the atmosphere would be completely lost.”
Sakabe’s willingness to indulge his eccentric tendencies is supported by his footwear brand, Grounds, which propels his business commercially. The bubble-soled sneakers are a familiar sight from Tokyo to Shanghai. Additionally, Sakabe has cultivated a devoted following. The twisted blouses, holey knits, super-shouldered blazers, and deconstructed sailor collar schoolgirl uniforms are intriguing, wearable, and unique enough to appeal to those who appreciate them. Much like the horror films he enjoys, Sakabe’s designs provide a gateway to another realm.
