The fashion world is ever-evolving, and 2026 marks a significant milestone: Pieter Mulier is poised to take on the role of Creative Director at Versace. As the Prada Group embarks on an ambitious transformation of the iconic Italian brand, all eyes are on the Belgian designer. Known for his insightful and commercially savvy approach at Alaïa, Mulier has built a reputation as one of the leading creative minds of his era.
This appointment is more than just a headline; it signals a strategic move towards the future of luxury fashion and what the Prada Group envisions for Versace on the global stage.
The Man Behind the Appointment
To grasp the significance of this decision, understanding Mulier’s background is crucial. Initially trained in architecture, he transitioned to fashion, advancing through Raf Simons’s studio in the early 2000s from an intern to a trusted collaborator.
During his career, he accompanied Simons to some of the industry’s most prestigious houses, such as Jil Sander, Christian Dior, and Calvin Klein. This journey sharpened his eye for structure, concept, and cultural relevance, defining his unique creative identity.
In 2021, Mulier assumed one of fashion’s most sensitive positions, taking charge at Alaïa after the loss of founder Azzedine Alaïa. His tenure was marked by understated successes, with sculptural ready-to-wear that married artistic rigour with commercial success, and accessories like the fishnet ballet flats became cultural icons.
Mulier demonstrated that avant-garde fashion and commercial achievement can coexist, a principle that will be essential at Versace.
What Versace Needs Right Now
When the Prada Group acquired Versace in late 2025, it took on a brand with both significant global recognition and complexity. For decades, Versace has balanced its bold, glamorous legacy with the evolving luxury market. Under Donatella Versace, the brand became a hallmark of unapologetic maximalism—deeply Italian, instantly recognizable, and culturally influential. However, maintaining this identity across generations and markets has become increasingly difficult.
The Prada Group’s strategy is meticulous. Led by CEO Andrea Guerra and executive chairman Lorenzo Bertelli, the goal is to redefine Versace as a more exclusive, desirable brand. This includes halting Versace Jeans Couture, refining sub-brand ready-to-wear lines, and re-establishing Atelier Versace as a prestige cornerstone.
Additionally, the focus on tighter distribution and full-price sales aims to enhance the brand’s identity. Bertelli emphasized that Mulier was seen early on as the designer with the potential to realize Versace’s full capabilities, highlighting the strategic foresight of this appointment.
The Vision, Set to Debut in Early 2027
Mulier’s tenure officially starts on July 1, 2026, with his first collection anticipated in early 2027. Meanwhile, the house is undergoing a phase of careful analysis and development, indicating a focus on long-term planning rather than hasty actions.
The creative challenge lies in how Mulier will draw from the archives. He has expressed admiration for Gianni Versace, and the house’s rich visual history is expected to influence his vision.
Mulier’s design language, characterized by architectural and intellectual elements, differs from Versace’s traditionally sensual style. The opportunity lies in merging these worlds: combining Versace’s daring glamour with Mulier’s structural precision. If successful, this fusion could redefine the brand for a new generation while preserving its heritage.
An Appointment Bigger Than Fashion
Versace names Pieter Mulier as its new Chief Creative Officer.
The former Alaïa creative director is set to take the reins starting July 1. pic.twitter.com/QZVyCdYDD8
— HYPEBEAST (@HYPEBEAST) February 5, 2026
Pieter Mulier’s appointment is more than a creative role; it reflects the future of Italian luxury. If the Prada Group successfully integrates Versace, streamlining operations and refining brand positioning, it could rival industry giants like Kering and LVMH.
Some industry insiders envision Versace as the Chanel of Italy: a unique, globally iconic brand supported by both creative innovation and commercial discipline.
This ambition is bold, but with Mulier’s thoughtful creativity and the Prada Group’s operational excellence, it feels within reach. For the first time in years, it seems entirely possible.
Featured image: Craig McDean
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