Crafting a runway show is akin to composing a sentence—there’s an art to its flow, style, and notably, its length. Too few designs can seem abrupt and meaningless; too many, and the audience might lose interest before the finale. But a collection of 24? Now that’s a beautifully concise expression.
This was demonstrated at Anibou Furniture, where Lee Mathews unveiled a calm and carefully curated resort 2027 runway show. Unlike traditional shows, this one started with the venue: a renowned Australian hub of mid-century modern design. The store’s Finnish pieces inspired Mathews to explore the modernist art of Helene Schjerfbeck, known for her soft color palette and precise Nordic design techniques. These influences emerged as neutral tones in the collection, enhanced with geometric elements like exposed stitching and contrasting pockets on uniform-like attire. A touch of flair was introduced with fabric gathered at the hip for a shift dress or a cascade of ruffles adorning the front of a lacy gown.
“I just don’t want to do ‘runway’ things anymore,” stated Mathews, following the 25th anniversary of her namesake label last year. “The context gets lost. But then, [this collection] had to be honest materials, and that had to be honestly constructed, and that meant you had to see how everything is made,” she explained, noting the exposed stitching and raw hems featured in many pieces. This blend of modest uniformity with ultra-feminine fabrics created a delightful, confident tension. After 25 years in the industry, Mathews expressed a newfound assurance, saying: “That’s why I’m just doing what I want.”
