In Anthony Vaccarello’s recent pre-fall collection for Saint Laurent, elements from his previous runway show, such as lacy lingerie, have been incorporated in a new way. This collection features gilded lace, slit skirts, leather, and shearling-like fur, emphasizing a bold, leg-showcasing aesthetic. These provocative designs are now available for purchase.
“For me, a pre-collection is more like a way for me to try to think what is wearable, more wearable than the show,” Vaccarello explained via Zoom from Paris. “More like clothes that I want to see my friends wearing.” He began by revisiting Yves Saint Laurent’s haute couture from the 1990s, a time not heavily documented online but certainly not defined by the grungy minimalism of that era. Once again, the sophisticated allure of Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent emerges distinctly amid the monotony of today’s understated luxury.
The concepts of “sensuality and freedom” resonate deeply with Vaccarello. During a light-hearted discussion about the abundance of sheer black-stockinged legs in the collection, he remarked, “For a lot of years, everything I’m doing is kind of long,” amusedly noting that when dressing stars like Rosé or Zoe Kravitz, they often tweak his designs. “So this time, I thought, why not do it before they do?”
The timeless Saint Laurent classic—the Smoking—makes a return, this time with tailored bermudas. To fashion historians, this harks back to Yves Saint Laurent’s daring adaptation of men’s evening wear in the 1960s. For younger audiences, Vaccarello’s black leather version, styled with a chic French flair, a cream pussycat bow blouse, sheer black stockings, and patent heels, is undeniably striking.
