Last month, Lanvin relocated its headquarters and atelier to the 10th arrondissement, positioning itself just a few buildings away from Acne Studios. Alongside this move, the company introduced its new CEO, Barbara Werschine. Despite these changes, Peter Copping has maintained his focus, producing collections that honor the legacy of Lanvin while appealing to modern women who prefer elegant yet uncomplicated fashion.
For the pre-collection set to debut in November, Copping emphasized that “looking inward” does not equate to looking backward. He explained that the Lanvin wardrobe is centered around practical pieces with distinctive designs. Highlights include a contoured denim caban with exaggerated cuffs, styled here as a mini-dress but also suggested to be worn with cigarette pants; a lightweight, off-white shirt-dress; and intricately designed knit silhouettes featuring ruffles and pleats. Copping spoke of “displacing volumes” in reference to a dress that conforms to the body in the front while billowing out in the back, creating a visually pleasing profile.
Though the collection lacks a unifying theme, Copping revealed he was inspired by a muse: AndrĂ©e Putman, a renowned designer known for her work in interior architecture, particularly in hotels and retail spaces, during the late ’80s and ’90s. The collection’s angular tailoring, a full-length jersey dress with sequined shoulders, and the pairing of tights with heels evoke Putman’s sleek style. Copping noted several parallels between Putman’s and Jeanne Lanvin’s designs. For instance, a photo shows Putman at a desk believed to belong to Lanvin, and Copping drew inspiration from a carpet Putman designed for the Concorde, which he felt echoed a geometric pattern in Lanvin’s bathroom, previously referenced in his debut show. “I like when these things fall into place, like complete serendipity,” Copping remarked about the two women.
While the collection includes polished pieces like a crisp cotton jacket with double-pleated sleeves and floor-length gowns, including a striking tiered crimson dress, it also features designs focused on comfort and practicality: Vichy pieces in stretchy, swimsuit material; a button-front shirt with a dĂ©colletĂ© cut-out to prevent bunching; and travel-friendly dresses. You don’t need to be as famous as Putman to appreciate how Copping has simplified and refined this style.
For those who have noticed the limited selection of pant styles in this collection, Copping assured that the next season will see a greater emphasis on trousers. Whatever plans he has for the upcoming show, there is a subtle momentum building in his work.
