At Tod’s, Matteo Tamburini continues to hone the delicate sensibility he has infused into the brand. For the spring 2027 collection, he once again delved into the everyday rituals of Italian life. He bypassed the grandiose, cinematic images of Italy for the understated beauty found in small gestures, aged textures, and the natural grace of daily routines.
“I started from a very simple idea: to continue exploring an Italian way of life defined by authenticity, quality, and a natural relationship with objects,” Tamburini explained at today’s showcase. The event took place in the sweltering heat at Villa Necchi Campiglio, where the venue’s charm almost—but not quite—matched the intensity of Milan’s ongoing heatwave.
Despite its apparent ease, simplicity is rarely straightforward. Tamburini’s inspiration came from Viaggio in Italia, Luigi Ghirri’s influential 1984 photographic project, which encouraged a fresh perspective on Italy—one that is observant rather than nostalgic, curious, and somewhat unrefined, steering clear of clichés.
Tapping into this perspective, Tamburini crafted garments that seemed to “absorb life rather than merely dress for it,” as he put it. The collection steered away from touristy Italian stereotypes, avoiding dramatic flourishes and sun-soaked clichés. Instead, it focused on subtle details: the fluidity of a soft Pashmy jacket draped over the shoulders, the worn patina of leather, and silhouettes designed for effortless movement rather than showy performance.
The tailoring was relaxed yet precise, with volumes that followed the body naturally. This encapsulates the essence of Italian style—achieving a polished look that seems instinctive, as if chosen without effort. In Italy, even indecision can appear elegant.
Tamburini described the collection as “an Italian wardrobe for today, precise with a certain ease, built around functionality and a natural sense of elegance.” At Tod’s, luxury is found in the construction, materials, and the understated confidence of exceptionally crafted pieces. As Tamburini remarked, it’s “a kind of luxury that does not need to declare itself too loudly.”
Materials remained a cornerstone of the brand’s identity. Featherlight suedes, soft leathers, washed linens, and richly tactile textures highlighted Tod’s enduring focus on craftsmanship. The color palette was similarly grounded, featuring sand, stone gray, and dusty blue, accented by warmer tones of rust and terracotta.
The ongoing Pashmy project was particularly noteworthy, pushing the boundaries of softness to almost improbable levels of lightness. Leathers took on the feel of cashmere, while staple wardrobe items gained a new fluidity. The featherweight shirt exemplified this approach—cut precisely yet nearly weightless. “I liked the idea of transforming certain wardrobe classics into pieces that feel more intimate, more sensitive,” Tamburini stated.
At Tod’s, two distinct identities coexist, skillfully balanced by Tamburini. On one hand, the house’s artisanal expertise, and on the other, a more urban and modern sensibility. “Viaggio in Italia served less as a destination than as an attitude,” Tamburini noted. The atmosphere he has cultivated at Tod’s is thoughtful, sophisticated without excess; the clothes invite wearers to simply live in them.
