Proenza Schouler Sets the Tone for New York Fashion Week

Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez kicked off New York Fashion Week in style, hosting a small show for 140 guests two days before the official start of the event. As the fashion cycle begins anew, the Proenza Schouler designers took the lead in shaping the season’s direction. At a preview of their latest collection, the duo appeared confident and poised.

“We really stripped things back to the point where we felt like there wasn’t a lot more to strip beyond last season,” McCollough explained. “This season, we’re rebuilding some of our codes from the past in new ways.”

Facing a summer of challenges in the fashion industry, including a shaky wholesale system, declining sales, and lackluster results from big hires, McCollough and Hernandez understood the current mood. “No one needs another black suit,” Hernandez stated. “What’s captivating people, at least for us, is an emotional quality—when you see something and think, ‘that’s so amazing, I need it.’ It’s about evoking an emotional response.”

This morning, guests gathered at their Tribeca loft venue, bathed in the warm September sunlight. The runway showcased a collection that felt revitalized. The designers drew inspiration from scarf-like square shapes, hinting at a nautical theme without being too literal. These squares draped elegantly across the body, revealing hints of skin on sleeveless striped tops paired with sailor pants and flowing floral print dresses that exuded a sense of movement. Knit dresses and striped top-and-skirt sets stood out, possibly becoming coveted pieces akin to their iconic velvet tie-dye dresses from years past.

Pleats and fringe were highlighted as key elements of the collection, with long jersey dresses embodying a classical Grecian aesthetic through delicate pleating. Leather and organza fringe added a modern, edgy touch, particularly on skirts with asymmetrical hems.

Collaborations with Sorel resulted in rubber rain shoes and boots, while low-profile sneakers featuring subtle PS logos grounded many looks, infusing them with a street-ready vibe reflective of the designers’ New York roots. Noteworthy pieces included sail-back short shirtdresses that are sure to be popular among fashion enthusiasts.