“Our objective was to take the concept of athleisure and infuse it with our signature sensuality and boldness,” shared Charlotte Knowles about the newly unveiled collaboration with Nike showcased at the recent KNWLS show. But, were there yoga pants on display? “Absolutely not!” both Knowles and Alexandre Arsenault chimed in effortlessly.
The designers’ inaugural Milan show was captivating, particularly for those keen to witness the outcome of their nearly three-year partnership with the iconic Swoosh. Additionally, the presence of Renzo Rosso, founder of Diesel and president of OTB, further heightened intrigue. It is worth noting that while KNWLS maintains its roots as an authentically indie London startup, it remains receptive to collaboration with like-minded spirits from diverse fashion hubs.
As described by Arsenault, the essence of the interwoven KNWLS x Nike collection and the mainline KNWLS pieces showcased during the event embodied the idea of “running to the club.” The atmosphere was reminiscent of a peculiar sci-fi scene akin to Zoolander, featuring models striding briskly through a semi-transparent runway before revealing themselves to the audience, as VTSS spun tracks from a platform above.
The Nike collaborative pieces were nothing short of radical. The standout sneaker came predominantly in black or off-white shades, along with a striking pink variant complete with a red sole designed to complement a delicately ruffled dress featuring lace cuffs and puffed sleeves in a subtly contrasting pink jacquard fabric. The shoe boasted a pointed, slightly elevated toe constructed from molded TPU, inspired by the KNWLS Raptor boot, presenting an exhilaratingly innovative silhouette reminiscent of a futuristic poulaine.
In addition, a Made In Italy handbag featuring a waffle-sole base, a leather strap, and a paneled nylon body caught the eye. Although Nike has previously collaborated with other designers like Jacquemus and Riccardo Tisci to create bags, this offering transcended the sportswear brand’s traditional categories and piqued interest for its audacious design. An avant-garde paramilitary corset, fashioned from proprietary Flyknit, was another astonishing addition for fans of the Beaverton label.
Every piece integrated seamlessly with the surrounding all-KNWLS collection. Jackets composed of bonded leather and neoprene were meticulously cut into oversized silhouettes with precise darting, featuring a bulkier, round-shouldered shape that conveyed an armor-like robustness, punctuated with ruff-style collar details offering a touch of fencing flair. Textured knit check jackets paired with flute-hemmed skirts above layered tops presented an alternative-reality take on Chanel.
Ergonomic piping combined with kinesiology tape traced the contours of bodycon layers crafted from tightly woven cotton and tubular-knit lycra in muted, sludgy tones, at times mirroring the appearance of washed denim.
While every aspect seemed meticulously crafted to fulfill some undefined physical purpose, the ultimate aesthetic served to underline a mentality steeped in warrior-like confidence—a fierce sensuality emphasized by Knowles from the very beginning.
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