Perched atop the scenic western bluff of Mackinac Island, The Inn at Stonecliffe casts a serene gaze over the Straits of Mackinac. The evening sunlight bathes the vibrant pollinator gardens—buzzing with the activity of bees, hummingbirds, and the occasional free-ranging chicken—while it fades into the glimmering vista of the Mackinac Bridge. One of the most striking elements is the tranquil ambiance: the gentle lapping of waves against the shore and the distant sound of hooves on the cobblestone streets. Even more remarkable is the absence of urban noise, creating a sanctuary for relaxation. Originally built in 1904 for cattle magnate Michael Cudahy, this Tudor Revival mansion has been lovingly restored for modern guests, making it an ideal spot to witness the spectacular transition into fall as trees dress themselves in shades of crimson and gold along the lakeside cliffs.
Removed from the lively thrums of downtown, the inn exemplifies why Mackinac Island holds a special place in my heart—a charming time capsule. I recall family visits from my youth, and now, returning with my children, it’s evident that while many things have remained unchanged, tasteful modern conveniences introduce a refreshing feel to this timeless experience.
Where Heritage and Modernity Converge
Photo: Courtesy of The Inn at Stonecliffe
Mackinac Island is a compact gem, spanning just under four square miles at the convergence of Lakes Huron and Michigan. Its historical roots run deep: long before European settlers arrived, it was revered by the Anishinaabe tribes—specifically the Odawa, Ojibwa, and Potawatomi—who knew it as “Michilimackinac” or “The Great Turtle,” reflecting both its distinctive shape and its mythical significance as a home for Gitche Manitou, the Great Spirit. The island later served as a fur trading hub for the French, a crucial military station during the Revolutionary and 1812 wars, and eventually evolved into a favored summer retreat for affluent families from Chicago and Detroit. The cinematic world has also embraced the island, notably with The Grand Hotel, a National Historic Landmark, playing a key role in the 1980 film Somewhere in Time.
A landmark decision came in 1898 when automobiles were banned following an incident involving a nervous horse. Over a century later, the ban remains, making Mackinac one of the few locations in the United States where transportation is limited to foot traffic, bicycles, or horse-drawn carriages. With its population hovering around 400 year-round residents, the island swells to tens of thousands during the summer, yet it retains a pristine beauty—over 80 percent of it is protected state parkland. Wandering through downtown, visitors encounter Victorian homes and delightful fudge shops, feeling as though they are in a bygone era.
While summer attracts the largest crowds, many locals argue that the island’s true splendor reveals itself in the fall, when crisp air and vibrant foliage awaken a new appreciation for nature’s beauty. Autumn gardens flourish with seasonal blooms, and it seems landscapers lavish extra care in preparing porches and paths adorned with mums, pumpkins, and colorful late-bloomers. Prices for hotel stays drop this time of year, and with fewer visitors, the island takes on a more relaxed and intimate atmosphere. For locals, Halloween is the upbeat celebration before the island prepares for winter’s quietude, filled with decorations, festivities, and community connections.
Where to Stay
Photo: Courtesy of The Inn at Stonecliffe
For an enchanting getaway that harmonizes history with contemporary comforts, The Inn at Stonecliffe stands out as the premier option on the island. Following a comprehensive $40 million renovation completed in 2024, the inn merges Edwardian aesthetics with today’s luxuries. Inviting, sunlit interiors are paired with four exclusive cottages, a family-friendly pool as well as an adults-only oasis, and rejuvenating spa services. Culinary offerings are another hallmark: The Straits Restaurant presents a delightful farm-to-table dining experience, highlighting seasonal dishes like garden-fresh salads, handmade pastas, and locally sourced fish. For casual dining, The Backyard offers delicious wood-fired pizza. The grounds are particularly picturesque in autumn, with gardens vibrant with late-season flowers, hammocks swaying under a canopy of golden leaves, and breathtaking views over toward both Lake Huron and Lake Michigan. Families can enjoy a variety of lawn games—think cornhole, soccer, and ladder toss—while gathering around solo fire pits for s’mores or hot cider under a canopy of twinkling stars.
The Grand Hotel persists as Mackinac Island’s most famed landmark, an expansive Victorian treasure topped with the world’s longest porch—perfect for lingering over cocktails as the sun sets over the Straits. The interior captures a grand nostalgia reflecting the bold vision of designer Carleton Varney, with a riot of color and style in bright florals and vivid stripes. With a wealth of dining choices, from indulgent milkshakes at the Cupola Bar to exquisite dishes such as tender wagyu beef skewers and oysters Rockefeller from the Jockey Club’s wood-fired oven, this hotel is both a destination and an experience on its own. A huge pool featuring twisting water slides and splash pads is a major attraction for families.
Hotel Iroquois, located at the water’s edge, combines a perfect lakeside setting with immaculate gardens and stunning sunset views. Its Carriage House restaurant is one of the most scenic dining venues in Northern Michigan, with Chef Greg Murphy crafting dishes featuring smoked whitefish cakes, curried lamb, seafood pasta, and filet mignon adorned with foraged morels, all made from locally sourced ingredients.
Where to Dine
While much of Mackinac Island’s food scene leans toward tavern-style fare—certainly, The Mustang Lounge holds the title of “Michigan’s most historical tavern”—there are numerous ways to enjoy diverse dining options beyond classic pub meals.
Kick-start your day with a delightful pour-over or specialty latte at Lucky Bean Coffee House, a rustic gem conveniently situated just off Main Street. For a unique twist, Watercolor Café pairs a refreshing breakfast and lunch menu—think breakfast burritos, peanut butter deluxe toast, creamy smoothies, and homemade pastries—with art classes and crafting workshops.
Many of Mackinac Island’s standout eateries are nestled within its historic hotels: The Inn at Stonecliffe, The Grand Hotel, and Hotel Iroquois, along with the elegant 1852 Grill Room at the Island House Hotel, where polished table service contrasts beautifully with its casual sibling, the Ice House BBQ hidden in the garden.
If you’re yearning for Caribbean flavor, make your way to Kingston Kitchen at the Village Inn, where chef Shawn Fearon offers a taste of Jamaica with dishes such as oxtail, jerk chicken, ackee and saltfish, curried goat, and the island’s best whitefish sandwich. Fearon has deep roots in Mackinac, having first arrived here over two decades ago, embodying the strong connection between Jamaican seasonal workers and this small island community.
For a quintessential Mackinac dining experience, grab a seat on the harborside patio at The Pink Pony. While it may appear a touch touristy, sipping a pink cocktail while enjoying a bowl of whitefish dip as ferries float by will quickly reveal why this lively eatery has captured hearts for generations.
As a native Michigander with a penchant for sweets, I must stop at Kilwins for their rich, indulgent ice cream. And of course, no visit is complete without sampling fudge. The irresistible aroma wafts down Main Street, where artisans faithfully perpetuate the century-old tradition of crafting fudge, which is expertly poured, paddled, and sliced into glossy, delectable blocks. While there are various fudge shops to choose from, you can’t go wrong with Original Murdick’s Fudge.
Where to Enjoy the Outdoors
Photo: Courtesy of The Inn at Stonecliffe
With a whopping 80% of Mackinac Island designated as state park, the best way to experience it is outdoors. Rent a bike and navigate the scenic eight-mile loop that hugs the coastline, stopping occasionally to dip your toes in the refreshing waters. As you pedal, you’ll stumble upon various landmarks along the route, such as Arch Rock—a magnificent limestone arch—and Sugar Loaf, an imposing limestone formation that interrupts the landscape. The climb to Arch Rock involves ascending 207 steps from Lakeshore Drive, where you can also visit the new Milliken Nature Center to delve into the geological curiosities and the island’s evolutionary tale.
For a leisurely alternative, consider a horse-drawn carriage ride, allowing you to enjoy the rhythmic sounds of hoofbeats as you glide past historic cemeteries, colorful wildflower meadows, and breathtaking bluffs that overlook the straits. Alternatively, explore the extensive trails, which offer over 70 miles of hiking options within the state park. If you’re keen on admiring magnificent homes, a favorite walking path winds behind the Grand Hotel along West Bluff Road, showcasing Victorian “cottages” and leading into Hubbard’s Annex, one of Michigan’s earliest planned summer communities.
In the heart of the downtown area, skip the typical souvenir shops and venture into Poppins, a chic paper and home goods store, or Little Luxuries, which offers artisanal, locally made products. Families should not miss the island’s two butterfly conservatories: Wings of Mackinac and The Original Butterfly House.
The island’s rich history is palpable at every turn. The Biddle House, home to the Mackinac Island Native American Museum, showcases the area’s indigenous heritage, while Fort Mackinac continues to reverberate with echoes of cannon fire from two centuries ago. Pro tip: after the steep trek up to the fort, treat yourself to a creamy milkshake at the Fort Mackinac Tea Room, where sweeping vistas compete with the deliciousness of shakes made with Guernsey Farms ice cream. Across the island, history is preserved in original 18th- and 19th-century structures, including the Benjamin Blacksmith Shop and Mill Creek, each offering an intriguing glimpse into Mackinac’s multifaceted past.
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