A new era has begun for Freddy Coomes and Matt Empringham, as they debut their latest collection under the new name A Letter. This change was not just a simple rebranding, but a chance for the designers to reflect on their creative process and redefine their artistic vision.
The duo unveiled their third collection in a sleek white gallery space in Central London, showcasing 15 looks on white mannequins adorned with choppy bob wigs. This marked their first physical presentation and their second collection as recipients of the prestigious Newgen award, inviting viewers to closely engage with their intricate designs.
A Letter’s collection continued to explore the possibilities of paper as a material, particularly crepe paper used to create artificial flowers. The result was a striking blend of sharp geometrical shapes and vibrant colors, such as a vermillion spaghetti-strapped top with hole-punched polka-dots paired with a box-pleated skirt. The designers’ meticulous attention to detail was evident in every piece, from the structured evening gown with a geometric bodice to the layered peach skirt cascading to the floor.
Even the garments made from woven fabrics followed a similar construction logic, with marinière jerseys featuring blunt bateau necklines and gauze scrims adorned with origami bows. The collection seamlessly integrated different textures and tones, creating a harmonious balance between the paper-like sheen of silk and the matte finish of crepe paper.
Amidst the paper creations, marled wool sweaters stood out as a contrast of proletarian simplicity against the delicate paper pieces. This juxtaposition highlighted the designers’ keen sense of British wit and their ability to play with cultural references to create a unique aesthetic.
While Coomes and Empringham resist categorizing their work as fine art, the gallery presentation raised questions about the objecthood of their garments. Are they meant to be worn or admired as art pieces? This ambiguity adds to the allure of their creations, sparking conversations about fashion as a form of self-expression and cultural commentary.
As A Letter prepares to showcase their collection in a Paris showroom, the designers face new challenges of translating their avant-garde designs into wearable pieces. The evolution of their brand is still unfolding, promising exciting developments in the world of fashion. Keep an eye on A Letter as they continue to push boundaries and redefine the art of clothing.
