Ancient DNA Reveals Secrets of Roman Fish Sauce

A modern recreation of garum, a fermented fish sauce dating back to Roman times
Alexander Mychko / Alamy
Fermented fish sauce, known as garum, was a popular condiment in the Roman Empire. Recent analysis of ancient DNA extracted from fish-salting vats has provided insights into the fish species used to make this ancient delicacy.
Roman garum was renowned for its salty and umami flavors, although not all versions were well-received, with some described as “the overpriced guts of rotten fish.” The process of fermenting and crushing fish to create the sauce made it challenging to visually identify the species used.
According to Paula Campos from the University of Porto, DNA sequencing tests on fish bone samples from a Roman fish-salting plant in Spain dated back to the 3rd century AD revealed that European sardines were the primary ingredient in the garum produced at that site. Other fish species like herring, whiting, mackerel, and anchovy have also been found in different garum production sites.
This discovery opens up possibilities for identifying regional variations in ancient fish sauces more accurately. Annalisa Marzano from the University of Bologna noted the significance of being able to extract identifiable DNA from degraded fish remains.
Comparisons between ancient and modern sardine DNA showed less genetic mixing of sardine populations in ancient times, shedding light on historical human-environment interactions. Campos and her team plan to expand their research to analyze fish species from other Roman garum production sites to gain a comprehensive understanding of the ingredients used across the empire.
Overall, this study highlights the valuable insights that ancient DNA analysis can provide in unraveling the mysteries of culinary practices from the past.