Stefano Gallici: The New Wave at Ann Demeulemeester

Before taking the helm at Ann Demeulemeester in 2023, Stefano Gallici, who is still under 30, gained valuable experience interning under Haider Ackermann in Antwerp. It seems like fate that he would end up in Antwerp, known for its fashion legacy. Now, he is following in the footsteps of the legendary Antwerp Six, continuing the poetic and elegant grit of the ’90s era. Demeulemeester’s influence went beyond just fashion; it was a mood, a vibe. Through her connection with Patti Smith, she captured a raw, androgynous, sonic minimalism. Gallici seems to understand this essence as well – his bohemian style resonates with the energy of today’s music scenes. Rumor has it that he and Demeulemeester even exchange playlists.

Gallici is a mix of intellectual and cool, referencing Kerouac and discussing West Coast literature. He has studied the fashion playbook, but is now rewriting it with his own unique touch. While he respects the brand’s archives, he is not afraid to put his own stamp on the designs. The iconic ’90s three-piece silhouette has been reimagined rather than replicated. The lines are still sleek and layered, but now with a more intentional structure that balances control and freedom. Tailoring is oversized yet precise, and the classic black and white palette is complemented by soft hues like sage, powder pink, and beige. Romantic touches like dévoré velvet add a touch of glamour. Denim, bombers, varsity jackets, and biker jackets are seamlessly integrated into the collection, catering to Gallici’s tribe of followers. “For Ann, it was all about the late ’70s East Coast scene – CBGB, Max’s Kansas City, that downtown edge,” Gallici explains. “For me, it’s the West Coast – Beat poets, San Francisco, Morrison, Ginsberg, Neal Cassady. That’s where my inspiration comes from.” He is definitely setting his own pace in the fashion world.