Shanghai is still basking in summer’s warmth, with temperatures soaring into the 30s—over 90 degrees Fahrenheit for those who measure in Imperial. The humidity is palpable, making Fashion Week a particularly sweaty affair. Printed show notes have made a stylish resurgence alongside handheld fans, and the city’s inhabitants have adapted their wardrobes for the sweltering heat: opting for simpler and lighter attire. It seems Austin Wang and Yansong Liu of Ao Yes anticipated the climate, presenting a runway collection imbued with a carefree spirit.
Wang and Liu are celebrated primarily for their impeccable tailoring, recognized as some of the most precise work in Shanghai. Their Mao jackets and trousers have grown into a kind of uniform for the city’s fashion elite—now gaining wider recognition thanks to a collaboration with Zara. This broader exposure is undoubtedly a positive development. However, any brand known for a distinctive style runs the risk of becoming overly restrictive and niche.
This season, Ao Yes embraced change: showcasing more skin, lighter textiles, and a relaxed silhouette. The creative duo appears to have drawn inspiration from the playful way fashion enthusiasts are styling their Ao Yes pieces. Their enhanced understanding of their audience translated into a strong confidence in this season’s primary offerings. For men, we saw short shorts and mid-calf pants teamed with flip-flops and an impressive new jacket silhouette layered over t-shirts instead of traditional button-downs. For women, the collection featured similar elements, along with flirtatious qipao-inspired dresses—some fitted in vibrant jacquards and others flowing and slightly sheer.
The designers cited the renowned author Yu Dafu, known for his romantic and sentimental prose, as the inspiration for this season. Ao Yes was initially founded with the vision to reinterpret traditional Chinese silhouettes through a contemporary fashion lens. Each season, they’ve garnered devoted followers, particularly among the youth. This time, the open sensuality of their garments marked a shift: less prim and much more whimsical. Undoubtedly, the audience was vibing with the summer heat.
