Exploring the Creative Process Behind Ashish Gupta’s Latest Collection
British designer Ashish Gupta recently unveiled his latest collection in a look book directed by former Fashion East-ers James Theseus Buck and Luke Brooks of Rottingdean Bazaar, along with photographer Annie Collinge. Despite their impressive credentials, some critics felt that the team fell short in delivering a truly captivating project.
Gupta, however, took a more diplomatic approach when addressing the feedback. Following a period of business challenges after the closure of Matches Fashion, he sought solace in his family and factories in India, immersing himself in the design process. “It was very therapeutic,” he shared. “Making clothes is the best part for me, and the workshop in India became an ideas lab where we experimented with new techniques every day.”
Returning to England with a renewed sense of creativity, Gupta’s collection embodies audacity, experimentation, and lightness. These qualities, he believes, are essential for survival as an independent designer in the UK’s current fashion landscape. This sentiment is reflected in the airy and whimsical tone he aimed to capture in the look book.
While some critics found the imagery lacking in glamour and context, Gupta highlighted the craftsmanship and personal touches that went into each piece. For example, a climbing wall look featured hand-embroidered fabric scraps from his development archive, dating back to his early days in the industry. Another standout piece, a chiffon T-shirt dress with hand-drawn sequined dots, was inspired by memories of a challenging project under the guidance of Professor Louise Wilson.
Despite the unconventional presentation, Gupta’s wit, determination, and skill shine through in this collection. Each garment showcases the imperfections of the handmade process, emphasizing the analog reality of handicraft. While the look book may not have met everyone’s expectations, it serves as a testament to Gupta’s resilience and creativity in the face of adversity.
