Meanwhile, as other designers have embraced the tactile essence that defines Antonio Tarantini’s creations for ATXV (characterized by the interplay of pulling and tying), the Italian designer has evolved his approach for spring. He continues to drape directly on the body, but feeling notably unrestrained, he shifted his attention to suspended fabric strips (each edge meticulously finished by hand) that opened up to showcase materials with varied textures and hues. “When I create with my hands, I feel entirely, utterly liberated. This season, I aimed to infuse my drapes with a more three-dimensional quality,” Tarantini shared during a call. To achieve this, he opted for elastic in lieu of traditional belts.
True to form, the designer devised clever methods to expose large areas of skin, balancing a sense of classic elegance with contemporary appeal, attracting pop artists like Rosé and Charli XCX. Several garments in his collection could be styled in multiple ways. Tarantini also reimagined a wardrobe staple, the T-shirt. Crafted in luxurious silk jersey, and inspired by his time on TikTok, the designer envisioned these basic garments as vehicles for transformation. Ultimately, the essence of ATXV transcends mere concealment; it’s a celebration of the body. “I love to design clothing that doesn’t speak on your behalf; garments should be alive,” Tarantini commented. “I’m averse to clothes that function as armor; for me, clothing represents freedom, a piece is an emotion, and in my case, a source of liberation.”