“True novelty isnât simply visual; itâs a state of being,” remarked Olivier Rousteing during the preview of his Spring 2026 womenswear collection in Paris earlier this month. This release serves as a close counterpart to the menswear collection, marking a significant evolution in Rousteing’s work with Balmain.
He elaborated on his creative process: “This collection emerged from my sanctuaryâan inspiring place for meditation at the beach. It could be in Italy, the south of France, or the Middle East… a location where I can appreciate the vastness of nature and the sky. Itâs a journey of introspection, pushing my boundaries, and even after 15 years at Balmain, I strive to embody freshness and innovation.”
This vision materialized into a masculine balance to the luxuriously bohemian expression seen previously at the Hotel Intercontinental, showcased in a show-like manner without an audience. There was a delightful exchange of garments between the two collections; featuring exquisite weathered leather blousons equipped with functional pockets, airy terracotta wide-mesh knits, and a reimagined terry-towel skirt crafted into a robe paired with matching pants, alongside the perennial Bali surf-inspired chest-piece composed of wooden beads and seashells.
Additional links between the collections included bags adorned with shells, fluid silk wraps in soft conch pink and other vibrant hues, and the occasional harem pant, albeit with a slightly tapered fit compared to those in the women’s offerings. For more formal occasions within this relaxed Balmain narrative, there was a selection of beautifully beaded sandals.
The look also embraced deconstructed military-style pants, structured field jackets with broad shoulders, and relaxed rib knits, creating a refined yet mellow military aesthetic. There was a generous infusion of wide-lapel tailoring, often styled with tucked-in jackets. Both the tailored pieces and military influences were occasionally enhanced with natural elements like shells, beads, and stonesâ a refreshing, laid-back evolution from the ultra-structured, opulent collections from Rousteing’s earlier years at the brand. “To me, todayâs true luxury embodies freedom and joy,” Rousteing expressed, reflecting a collection characterized by texture, touch, and ease, embodying his artistic awakening.
