Anthony Alvarez Graff’s Fall Collection: A Synthesis of Style

For fall, Anthony Alvarez Graff made a bold decision to hit pause on the traditional fashion show format, opting instead for a private showroom in the upper Marais.

“This is really a moment of synthesis for us,” the designer explained. Taking a break from the show allowed him to focus on archetypes and fully explore his ideas. “I love doing the show because it’s a reunion. But you always have to drop the pen when you’re focusing on too many things besides design. You’re always chasing the next season; you’re always a season late,” he said.

Despite the shift in presentation, Alvarez Graff’s collection was a testament to his keen attention to detail. From the new brand insignia to tiny tonal leaf embroideries, molten silver studs, and slim grosgrain trim, every piece in the lineup exuded intention and thoughtfulness.

One of the key themes that Alvarez Graff explored in this collection was the tension between formal and casual. Pieces like a pair of cargo pants, subtly embellished with studded patches in pony skin and leather, exemplified this juxtaposition perfectly. Outerwear also stood out, with jackets in cracked blue leather, plaid bombers in a mohair mix, and olive trench coats with leather accents.

Alvarez Graff seamlessly blended different worlds through craftsy touches, such as floral patches embroidered with glass beads on cardigans and hand-embroidered details on jeans. The collection also featured smart ribbed sweaters and plaid patterns inspired by a visit to the Vertigo exhibition at the Fondation Carmignac contemporary art center.

Among the standout pieces were new iterations of the brand’s famous embroidered cap and a Chelsea boot version of the studded loafer. Alvarez Graff aimed to showcase how a new balance can emerge from a moment of instability through his designs.

While some may have wished for a bit more formal wear in the mix, the collection still offered plenty of strong and subtly playful pieces that exemplified Alvarez Graff’s unique vision.