All About Film: Miguel Castro Freitas’ Journey with Mugler
The movies hold a profound significance for Miguel Castro Freitas, 45, who took the helm at Mugler at the end of March. With a remarkable career history that includes stints at prestigious fashion houses like Dior, Dries Van Noten, and Lanvin, Freitas brings a wealth of experience to his new role. His recent position as creative director at Sportmax served as an invaluable stepping stone, allowing him to refine his vision without the spotlight’s pressure—an ideal preparation for his upcoming debut collection.
As part of the launch for his debut show, Freitas plans to include film DVDs in the invitations. When asked which film he’d like, he enthusiastically replies, “Oh, surprise me!” Although secretly hoping for the Jacques Demy classic, Lola, which he cherishes. Freitas’ deep admiration for classic Hollywood not only resonates personally but also acts as a crucial foundation for his creative process. He cites iconic films such as Sunset Boulevard, All About Eve, and Some Like It Hot among his all-time favorites, showcasing how cinema informs his style and inspiration.
“I like to have keywords on my moodboard,” Freitas notes. “They evoke the mood of the collection as much as the images—they are very sensorial to me.”
Photo: Valentino Barbieri/ Courtesy of Mugler
Decade-spanning showgirls are a significant influence for Freitas’ collection.
Photo: Valentino Barbieri/ Courtesy of Mugler
Freitas’ moodboard is filled with evocative keywords inspired by cinematic themes: Kitsch Glamour, Stardust, Poetic Camp, Nocturnal, and Purist Maximalism. These concepts accompany striking images of classic Mugler elements, including a memorable photo by Helmut Newton featuring Eva Herzigova in a starry bodysuit, as well as visual nods to icons such as Judy Garland and Jayne Mansfield. Freitas is also influenced by the surreal artwork of Hans Bellmer and the innovative designs of Nineties Martin Margiela.
“This collection will have a very unique expression as it will be part of a trilogy—one that glorifies clichés,” Freitas passionately shares. He is keen to confront and embrace the legacy of Mugler, viewing it as a thrilling challenge. “Mugler is deeply connected to the concept of clichés—motifs of power dressing, glamour, femme fatales, and retro futurism echo through the years. In beginning this journey at Mugler, I aimed to excavate these codes by delving into the archives of the brand,” he says, revealing an archeological approach to fashion design.
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