Rediscovering Weekend Dressing with Derek Lam at Callas Milano
Last season marked Derek Lam’s debut as the creative director of Callas Milano, a brand known for its refined wardrobe staples. Under Lam’s direction, the fall collection took on a more polished and formal aesthetic, introducing pieces like a jacket with New Look proportions and trousers with a corseted waistband. However, for the upcoming spring season, Lam is taking a different approach, focusing on a more laidback and relaxed sensibility.
When Lam mentioned his focus on “weekend dressing,” he wasn’t referring to the typical American loungewear style. Instead, he drew inspiration from the European approach to weekend attire, which emphasizes effortless chic. The spring collection features a range of looks that exude ease and comfort, such as a camp shirt paired with dark rinse denim trousers or a blouson jacket with a matching full midi-skirt in a technical yarn. Each outfit is completed with flat shoes, emphasizing a casual state of mind.
Lam has paid close attention to the details in this collection, ensuring that each piece is finely made without feeling too precious. For example, he collaborated with textile designer Valerie Barkowski to create tassel embroideries for the collars of button-down shirts. Additionally, he incorporated unique touches like washing linen cotton sets for a “lived-in” feel and adding elasticized bands to shoulder straps on a seersucker sundress.
The backdrop for the collection is equally noteworthy, set against the backdrop of Villa Borsani, the modernist mid-century home of Italian architect Osvaldo Borsani. Lam describes the villa as the “spiritual home” of Callas, with its chic and inspiring ambiance.
