In a rare fashion showcase where each outfit stands apart yet collectively captivates, Michael Rider achieved this with his debut standalone Celine menswear collection. The collection was a refreshing blend of appealing garments and unique personas, akin to an in-house jam session. “We try it all on, we have to want it, we build on it with each other. It’s a sense that’s collective, that we’re the customer and know what the values of the house are,” Rider explained. “It’s the things we want, and we make the characters we want to be. I think that is unifying, and feels authentic.”
The show featured a dynamic range of styles, from the skinniest-cut pants to loose, drawstring-waist balloon trousers cinched at the ankles. Tailored overcoats fitted neatly to the torso were alternated with flowing, cape-like trench coats. Precision-cut blazers were presented alongside New Wave-inspired cap-sleeve t-shirts. The sweater selection included tiny Shetlands, schoolboy Fair Isle tanks, twin-sets, and oversized Sloppy Joe tunics.
Models appeared lost in their own worlds, sporting conceptual half-cocked hats and face-covering fringed headbands. One model even had gemstones affixed to his forehead. “We were talking about when you’re young: I think a lot of us remember experimenting with our bodies, whether it’s tattoos or your first nose ring,” Rider said. Observing the self-expressive style of Parisian youths from his window, Rider’s casting captured this youthful indie spirit. “I want the guys I see on the street,” Rider stated. “I lean my arm out the window to get a photo of the back of their sock or something, and we look for those boys.”
Rider’s new approach to fashion consciously breaks away from the uniformity and linear storytelling that has characterized shows over the past decade. “Look, it’s not to knock anything else going on, but I think I dream about, and hope to be part of building something that has legs. Something that can turn the page, maybe from a moment some of us felt had gotten flattened, or pre-written, which doesn’t interest me.”
Despite the departure from convention, Rider maintains the luxury and quality synonymous with Celine. While capturing a new generational attitude, his collection still prominently features impeccably tailored classic blazers, a striking red cropped peacoat, buttery leathers, and a variety of bags. Elements from the past resurfaced with vivid green, sky blue, and red hues, balanced by camel, yellow, and subtle neutrals reminiscent of Phoebe Philo’s era, along with scarf prints and abundant fabric. Integrating these elements into his new vision felt completely right. As a creative director, designer, and visionary team leader, Rider appears entirely at ease in his role.
