San Miguel de Oriente is a town where pottery is not just a craft, but a way of life. With 95% of the residents being master potters, the streets are adorned with beautiful murals and the outdoor stadium is a sight to behold. As we wandered through the town, we came across shops selling a variety of pottery items, from traditional Mesoamerican sculptures to modern flower vases with Marimekko-like designs. My son couldn’t resist buying a jaguar head for his bedroom as a souvenir of our visit.
Despite it being Easter, the town was unusually quiet due to a ban on public religious celebrations imposed by Nicaragua’s co-presidents, Daniel Ortega and Rosario Murillo. It was a stark reminder of the political climate in the country, where the government closely monitors and controls public activities, even down to the smallest details like newspaper articles.
Our next stop was Caterina, a town overflowing with vibrant floral nurseries that rival even New York’s famous flower district. From there, we made our way to Lake Apoyo, known locally as “the lagoon”. The sapphire blue waters, heated by volcanic hot springs, were a magnet for swimmers and local children alike. My teenage son, who had been sulking throughout the trip, couldn’t resist the lure of the water and spent hours diving for black, sulfur-scented sand with a newfound sense of joy.
After a refreshing swim, we indulged in some delicious lakeside tacos before embarking on a boat ride around the lake. The scenery was breathtaking, with egrets and monkeys making appearances amidst a backdrop of lush lily pads, banana trees, and mango trees. However, as we learned from Eva Avjean, the spa and wellness director at Rancho Santana, the mango trees were not always a blessing. She recounted how mischievous monkeys would often snatch unripe mangoes and throw them at unsuspecting passersby.
Rancho Santana, a luxury resort and housing complex, offered a tranquil retreat from the chaos of everyday life. Spread across 2,700 acres, the property was a maze of pathways leading to pristine beaches and luxurious amenities. From daily yoga classes overlooking the Pacific Ocean to relaxing facials and sound bath sessions, the resort offered a myriad of wellness experiences for guests to indulge in.
As I navigated the sprawling property, getting lost more than once, I couldn’t help but marvel at the sheer size and beauty of Rancho Santana. Each turn revealed a new surprise, from hidden gardens to secluded beaches. Despite a few bumps and bruises from my adventures, the memories of our trip to Nicaragua will forever be etched in my mind as a truly unforgettable experience.