Glenn Martens is gearing up for his highly-anticipated Maison Margiela Artisanal couture debut, set to make waves next month. Despite this impending milestone, Martens showcased a pre-spring collection for Diesel that exuded nothing but focus and creativity.
As we delved into the collection, Martens described it as a continuation of his previous show, which featured a vibrant mix of globally-sourced street art. This time around, the setting was filled with around 100 onlookers, including some from Diesel HQ and street-cast individuals from Breganza, the brand’s hometown.
The collection showcased a more concentrated and refined version of Martens’ signature style, thanks to a strategic restructuring within Diesel’s operations. Pieces like neoprene dresses, jackets, and outerwear adorned in felted wool or treated denim exuded a grungy yet classic aesthetic. Martens highlighted a knit-hooded overcoat inspired by his own design from Y-project, now reimagined for Diesel. Leather puffers with high-waists and low sleeves, along with pieces featuring “fake tailoring” in jersey, denim, or neoprene, added a unique twist to traditional silhouettes.
Martens’ playfulness shone through in trompe l’oeil draping on dresses, leather blousons with perfecto trompe l’oeil prints, and a versatile slip dress with a double-layered construction for customizable neckline options. The collection also flirted with preppy elements, such as a D logo bengal stripe shirt layered over an overprinted henley paired with distressed bootcut jeans. Tarnished silver taping on mesh knits added a DIY touch to the readymade pieces.
Despite the streamlined approach, the Diesel collection was brimming with innovative ideas and Martens’ signature aesthetic. With his attention now divided between Diesel and Maison Margiela, fans can expect an explosive showcase of creativity at his upcoming couture debut.
