Dusan Paunovic is making waves with his independent label, intentionally steering clear of conventional industry trends and the typical spotlight that comes with them. Shunning the pitfalls of excessive social media exposure, he’s built a solid business model that reflects his unique vision, carving out a distinct niche in the fashion landscape. While he remains aware of the industry’s shifting dynamics, he opts against presenting mood boards or inspirations, deeming them as clichés. However, one designer whose legacy he openly embraces is the late Giorgio Armani, who recently left us.
Reflecting on his early inspiration, Paunovic shared, “Back in Milan in ’91, Armani was everything. No one else possessed a style that was so instantly recognizable.” He recalls the impact of Armani’s “non-colors” and the muted tones that defined Milanese fashion. “His ‘Blue 1041’—a midnight blue so deep it seemed to absorb light—was unforgettable. His designs were sharp, androgynous, and epitomized pure Milan. Each piece was practical and elegant, devoid of unnecessary adornment—a timeless style. I pursue the same vision, drawn to Milan’s urban hues. Bright colors? They just don’t resonate with my aesthetic. Whenever I try to introduce them, they flop.”
True to his steadfast beliefs, Paunovic’s latest collection showcases his signature approach to fluid and minimalist design. Lightweight wool and cashmere chiffon were expertly tailored into ethereal tunics, while twisted voile wool transformed into stylish sarong skirts. A sharp silhouette emerged with a kimono trench crafted from crisp silk-wool twill. Herringbone made a soft debut in an unlined jacket-and-pants combination, while satin linen was skillfully cut on the bias. Even traditional windowpane overcoats received a luxurious upgrade, seamlessly blending linen, wool, and silk.
The collection’s color palette was cool and subdued, featuring shades such as Mao-blue dusters, ink-washed denim tops, rice-white sweaters, lilac satin shirts, and khaki uniforms. Evening wear drifted towards a seaside motif, embodying elegance through simplicity with a square-cut top made of black iris silk paired with satiny white trousers—a perfect embodiment of Paunovic’s ethos distilled to its essentials.
