Etro’s latest presentation took place in the cozy back rooms of a traditional Brera trattoria, a departure from the usual stark white cube setups. The ambiance was reminiscent of a Wunderkammer, with dim lighting and an intimate setting that exuded a sense of luxury. The mannequins on display were adorned with intricate Venetian-made papier-mâchĂ© animal heads, including foxes, owls, rams, and bears, creating a whimsical menagerie with a touch of sophistication.
The concept behind the animal masks was a nod to Etro’s 1997 photographic campaign, conceived by Kean Etro during his time as creative director. The campaign explored the idea of physiognomy, highlighting the connection between human traits and animal instincts. Marco De Vincenzo, the current creative mind behind Etro, found the imagery to be genius and decided to revive it for the current collection titled Ani-men, a fusion of ‘animal’ and ‘men’.
The Ani-men were presented in a setting that resembled a forest at dusk, evoking a sense of their natural habitat. The color palette ranged from rich browns to lush greens and deep reds, exuding a sense of camouflage and discretion. The collection featured velvet paisley robes, slouchy pajamas, and impeccably tailored suits with feather trims, embodying a regal and refined aesthetic. Deer faces peeked out in pixelated jacquards on cozy knitwear, while the iconic paisley motif was omnipresent, symbolizing the Ani-men’s heritage and lineage.
The presentation was accompanied by the hauntingly beautiful music of Wendy Carlos, a composer admired by De Vincenzo for her innovative approach to classical music. Drawing parallels between Carlos’s electronic reimagining of Bach’s works and his own reinterpretation of Etro’s heritage, De Vincenzo emphasized the importance of rewriting the past and infusing it with a modern twist.
In essence, Etro’s Ani-men collection is a blend of tradition and innovation, where animal instincts meet sartorial elegance in a harmonious fusion of past and present. The whimsical yet refined pieces showcased in the intimate trattoria setting create a captivating narrative that celebrates the brand’s rich heritage while embracing a contemporary sensibility.
