Fashion waste from popular UK brands such as Next, Asda, and M&S have been discovered in protected wetlands in Ghana, raising concerns about the impact on local wildlife and communities. Greenpeace’s investigative unit, Unearthed, along with its Africa branch, documented discarded clothes from high street brands at a growing dumpsite within the Densu Delta, a designated habitat of international importance under the Convention on Wetlands.
The team observed garments discarded by UK consumers at or near two open-air waste dumps, Glefe and Akkaway, which have appeared in the protected nature site. These dumps, towering taller than two-storey buildings in some areas, are also receiving clothes from other popular brands like Zara, H&M, and Primark. The presence of fashion waste in these wetlands raises concerns about the release of microplastics and chemicals into the environment, impacting rare bird and turtle species that call the area home.
Ghana, known as the world’s largest importer of used clothing, receives around 15 million items of discarded garments each week. The UK alone sent 57,000 tonnes of fashion waste to Ghana last year, contributing to the overwhelming waste management challenges in the country. This influx of fashion waste has led to the emergence of new waste dumps near Ghana’s capital city, Accra, exacerbating the environmental impact on the Densu Delta.
The Densu Delta serves as a critical habitat for various bird species, including rare roseate terns and curlew sandpipers, as well as endangered leatherback and green turtles. The dumping of fashion waste in these wetlands poses a significant threat to the local wildlife and ecosystems. Dr. Jones Quartey, a wetland ecologist at the University of Ghana, emphasized the potential risks associated with disposing of textiles in wetlands, highlighting the bioaccumulation and biomagnification of microplastics in aquatic organisms.
In response to these findings, some fashion labels like M&S, George, and Primark have implemented “take-back” schemes to address textile waste challenges. Others, including H&M, Zara, and George, expressed support for an extended producer responsibility framework to hold labels accountable for their products’ end-of-life impact. The UK government also acknowledged the need for action, emphasizing the importance of reducing textile waste and promoting sustainable fashion practices.
As the fashion industry grapples with the environmental consequences of fast fashion, it is crucial for brands to prioritize responsible waste management practices and support initiatives that promote circular fashion. By raising awareness about the impact of fashion waste on protected wetlands in Ghana, we can work towards a more sustainable and environmentally conscious future for the fashion industry.
This article was rewritten by Rebecca Speare-Cole, a reporter with PA, to highlight the urgent need for action in addressing fashion waste and its impact on global ecosystems.