Maria Grazia Chiuri’s debut cruise collection as Fendi’s creative director features an intriguing mix of weathered denim Western shirts, fringe-trimmed leather skirts, camel coats with contrast undercollars, and checked pants with a punk flair. These garments were presented as pairs, often showcased on both male and female models within the same frame. This arrangement created a sense of complementary opposition, prompting viewers to reflect on the dynamic between the wearer and the observer.
From the beginning of the previous season, Chiuri emphasized that a shared wardrobe would be fundamental to her vision for Fendi. Drawing from her personal experience of frequently swapping clothes with her husband, she views a shared wardrobe as practical rather than revolutionary. The models’ intense gazes at each other in matching outfits suggested a theme of mutual attraction, perhaps tinged with narcissism.
Chiuri described her collection as embodying a “modernist idea” with garments that are highly functional and feature extremely straight lines. This was evident in the high-centered X silhouette of the long-skirted eveningwear and outerwear. She focused on a restrained color palette, highlighting the contrast between the off-white “parchment” tones, often seen in the brand’s bags and skins, and the dominant black hues in the dimly lit lookbook.
Amid the shadows, it was evident that Fendi’s mastery of fur was showcased in various pieces, such as a woven fur jacket with contrasting colors, leather outerwear with fur-trimmed collars, and accessories like fur-patched bags and shoes. Chiuri explained that incorporating fur and other materials like mesh, lace, and leather speaks to an inherent sensuality at Fendi, which has not always been fully expressed on the runway. She remarked, “we should not forget that the company was born from fur, and fur itself already carries an idea of softness, an idea of sensuality.”
Chiuri also expressed her interest in the evolution of middle-class working wardrobes over generations. Referencing Visconti, she noted the difference in the appearance and maturity of film characters from the 1970s compared to today. Alongside advocating for a shared wardrobe, Chiuri is promoting a wardrobe with a sense of maturity and longevity. She stated, “The other thing that interests me very much is that each client can, little by little, build their own Fendi wardrobe; not necessarily abandoning pieces from the previous season, but instead allowing them to remain in continuity with the new season, so that they can coexist together.”
