Ruth E. Carter is more than just a costume designer; she is an iconic figure in Hollywood whose contributions go far beyond the title. For over thirty years, she has captured and expressed complex narratives through clothing, taking audiences on a journey from the streets of Brooklyn to the fantastical land of Wakanda.
“School Daze marked my debut as a costume designer, directed by Spike Lee,” Carter recalls at the beginning of her Life in Looks feature. She reflects on her roots, saying, “Having come from an HBCU, it felt like the perfect introduction to the film industry.” Crafting Greek letterman jackets and cheerleading outfits for the production was just the start of her remarkable career.
Transitioning to television, Carter designed the costumes for the pilot episode of Seinfeld. After collaborating with Denzel Washington on Malcolm X (which premiered years later), she accepted this opportunity. Remembering an interaction with George Costanza, she noted how he envisioned his character wearing glasses, and serendipitously, she had a pair previously styled for Washington. “It became a delightful Easter egg for many years that George sported Malcolm X’s glasses,” she shares.
In 1989, with Spike Leeâs Do The Right Thing, Carter poured her heart into crafting a visual homage to Brooklyn, dressing the characters in outfits that spoke to the borough’s spirit. The 1992 film The Five Heartbeats by Robert Townsend marked another milestone, showcasing her talent in period piecesâa style she has frequently revisited.
The release of Malcolm X in 1992, which earned Carter an Academy Award nomination, was the result of significant research. Since Malcolm spent time in the prison system in Massachusetts, and being a native of the state, she sought permission from the corrections department to access his records. Spending hours poring over letters and files during her visit allowed her to connect with the man behind the legend. “Gaining deeper insight into his life helped me make more informed choices about his wardrobe,” she reflects on the experience.
When it came time to design for Brian Gibson’s Whatâs Love Got to Do With It, Carter was fortunate to have the real Tina Turner on set occasionally. This unique situation provided invaluable input as she worked to replicate a striking leather mini dress for Angela Bassett, who portrayed Turner. Carter expresses that her journey with Bassett has been extensive and transformative over the years.
