Chora, a small island in Greece, was once a barren land with very few trees. The residents had to burn charcoal in braziers for heat as there was no vegetation to provide warmth. Rainwater was collected in cisterns because there was no chance of cultivating a garden on the island. This scarcity of resources meant that all provisions, including vegetables, fruit, and other necessities, had to be brought in from Athens, making life on the island wonderfully inconvenient.
Despite the challenges, the expatriate community on Chora flourished over the years. Stefanidis, a renowned decorator, lent his talents to transforming a dozen or so houses on the island. Many of these houses were for friends who made the arduous journey to Chora. Cy Twombly, a resident on the island, once remarked firmly to Stefanidis, “You’re bringing the rot with you.” However, time seemed to move more slowly in Chora, offering a peaceful escape from the hustle and bustle of city life.
Chora boasts only one grocer, where perishable items must be purchased as close to delivery as possible. The village also has one Armenian baker who bakes delicious bread loops filled with feta cheese, a perfect way to start the day at a leisurely pace. Donkeys were the primary mode of transportation on the island until the first taxi arrived in the seventies. The narrow lanes of Chora, with their whitewashed walls adorned with plumbago and bougainvillea, are too narrow for cars, requiring visitors to have a strong constitution to navigate the winding paths and steep stairways.
Katell le Bourhis, a resident of Chora, resides in a 17th-century volcanic-stone stable that has been converted into a charming home by architect Lilia Melissa. The village’s architecture, characterized by crisply whitewashed walls and vibrant blue woodwork, reflects a traditional Greek aesthetic. Stefanidis’s restoration of ancient island crafts, such as trelliswork cupboard doors and bamboo-slatted ceilings, has become a hallmark of Chora’s design.
His home and various projects are adorned with a mix of eclectic objects gathered from around the world, reminiscent of the treasures brought back by the island’s merchant sailors. Turkish kilims, Damascene metalwork, English china, and Indian textiles adorn the interiors, creating a cosmopolitan atmosphere on this remote island. Chora may be a challenging place to live, but its unique charm and slow pace of life continue to captivate visitors from near and far.
