Giuseppe Di Morabito’s Resort 2027 collection draws inspiration from a line by French critic and philosopher Roland Barthes: “I am not contradictory. I am dispersed.” Influenced by Barthes’ work, A Lover’s Discourse, Di Morabito titled his collection “The Parts We Keep,” reflecting on what remains after a relationship ends. True to this concept, he concealed every face—using a brown suede scarf, a hooded pinstripe blazer, an ostrich-feather hat, and a black nappa mask adorned with roses. When not utilizing these coverings, shield sunglasses stepped in. Known for his use of veils and coverings, Di Morabito fully embraced this theme, stating, “I keep a part for myself.”
The collection’s garments embodied this theme of concealment. A jacket featured hidden structure beneath and above lace, completely encircling without seams. Corsets were integrated into the clothing, rather than worn separately. A trench coat’s fringe subtly adorned its hem, while silk chiffon, a new addition for the brand, evoked an “always undeclared” sense of nudity, with a balloon dress in sheer oyster silk, also presented in baby pink. A calla lily in steel appeared as an earring and a hip clasp, symbolizing strength within delicacy. Di Morabito’s signature crystal work was showcased in two novel forms: a sage crystal-mesh halter with a train and, for the first time, as a mini draped over the body.
This season’s tailoring introduced fresh elements. A structured jacket opened and cropped above the waist, while balloon trousers exaggeratedly narrowed at the ankles, with a shorts version as well. Jackets featured leg-of-mutton sleeves, inspired by costume history, lacking natural shoulders. Denim was completely inverted, with pockets front-facing and secured by a crystal-mesh sash. Di Morabito himself enumerated the influences: tailoring aesthetics, uniformity, leg-of-mutton sleeves, and ‘80s shoulders. Finally, trousers slimmed down to a clean cigarette cut for the first time.
Giuseppe Di Morabito consistently crafts a coherent fashion vocabulary, incorporating menswear tailoring, corsets, crystals, and lace. In this collection, Barthes provided a framework, enhancing Di Morabito’s ongoing practice of literary references and showcasing his maturation in deciding what elements are essential to retain.
