Since joining Gucci, Demna has embraced a bold approach, choosing to either make a big splash or not at all. This was evident with the movie “The Tiger,” directed by Spike Jonze and Halina Reijn, which served as a show in September. In February, a massive set was featured alongside numerous 3D-scanned statues reminiscent of the Uffizi Gallery. Now, Demna has staged his first cruise show right in the bustling heart of Times Square, a symbol of American consumerism. Invitations were sent digitally just this afternoon, revealing the show’s location. The logistics, including securing permits and negotiating with various parties, were unprecedented for a brand.
At 8:30 pm, just 30 minutes before the show was set to begin, around 50 towering screens in the Square started displaying found video footage. As this happened, hundreds of phones lit up, capturing scenes of sunsets, snow-covered mountains, galloping horses, and seemingly AI-generated garden visuals. Interspersed between these were commercials for both real and imaginary Gucci products, such as Gucci Acqua (water), Gucci Viaggio (airplanes, “because the sky is not the limit”), and even Gucci Life. Demna commented, “I like the kind of absurdity, the annoying interruption of the beautiful vision of the world by advertising something that you don’t have to sell. That part was interesting for me.”
However, the main goal of the show was to sell the collection presented. Dubbed GucciCore, this line is a range of everyday essentials that Demna noticed were lacking at Gucci due to previous designer changes. Yet, the question remains whether someone known for irony and irreverence, as seen in the aforementioned ads proliferating on social media, can truly create classic garments.
In a preview, the collection was displayed on racks as it would be in a Gucci store, seemingly to prove that Demna indeed can. The collection featured jackets ranging from fitted to slightly oversized, including a standout red peacoat made from the heavy wool used for the Buckingham Palace King’s Guard. Skirts varied in style from short and trapeze-shaped to pencil slim, and mid-calf length with scarf-printed pleats. A tailored suit with flared trousers was described by Demna as having “the ultimate Gucci fit.”
This collection felt more complete than the previous February show, which focused on sleek, tight silhouettes. Demna described it as “probably the most commercial collection I’ve ever done.” In some instances, the designs were a bit exaggerated, such as a printed shirt dress paired with an extroverted double-G belt modeled by Paris Hilton. However, when shown with a fitted leather jacket and slouchy paisley print button-down, the pencil skirt had a relevance not seen since Tom Ford’s time at Gucci.
The collection’s appeal was largely due to its styling and cast. Aiming to capture the essence of the city, Demna said, “I wanted to show the collection on the kind of people you might pass on the street, individuals with their own way of wearing clothes.” This is a concept he has explored since his days at Balenciaga, where he similarly showcased New York characters in 2022 at the Stock Exchange. The diverse cast included gallerist Jeanne Greenberg in a leather coat painted with the Flora print, painter Rory Gevis in chevron shearling and a panettone bag, Cindy Crawford in a feather-adorned gown, and Tom Brady channeling the Terminator in all-black leather. The entire ensemble was reflected infinitely on surrounding screens, creating a hall of mirrors effect unique to New York.
