Hed Mayner utilizes a personal strategy to navigate challenging times, such as enduring record-breaking heat waves and a constant stream of negative news. “I’m not into that kind of world, I’m living in my own,” the designer explained while backstage at the opulent, chandelier-adorned, and air-conditioned Cercle des Armées. He clarified that it is not about ignoring reality, but rather, “I’m just trying to stay positive.”
Unlike previous collections characterized by high volume, Mayner emphasized that this season focused on fabrics. “It’s about cleansing and creating something more sharp and clear, a bit more minimalistic but still very maximalist in the touch,” he remarked.
Mayner streamlined his approach to the fundamentals of artistry, choosing unconventional materials such as densely woven white nylon mesh and jute canvas. This humble cloth, when coated with white paint, created a crocodile-like texture which, upon closer inspection, revealed a craquelure effect.
“There’s something random about it,” Mayner acknowledged, “but it’s a controlled random. There’s a lot of intention.” Despite their quirky nature, these pieces were well-received. In a more understated style, a jute top with trumpet sleeves gleamed as if shellacked, paired on the runway with roomy trousers made of burgundy vegan leather.
Throughout the collection, the designer concentrated on the art of cutting in calming colors such as sky blue, pale yellow, ecru, and rust. His tailoring expertise was subtly showcased in an ecru cotton canvas parka, short in front like a bomber and longer in the back. Similarly, a jacket with shoulder seams shifted slightly backward exuded elegance and confidence. A slim double-breasted jacket in crinkled dry cotton appeared polished over matching trousers, designed with a roomy, drop-crotch fit similar to judo pants for ease of movement. Embracing the concept of dressing “fast and random,” the outerwear line featured a sleeveless overcoat with armholes extending to the waist for easy layering over jackets. A kimono-like jute trench, displayed with a periwinkle polo sweater, was slit high in the back with panels secured by a back tab, unless the wearer opts to leave them loose. This “fly or die” philosophy, as Mayner describes it, solidifies his reputation as a designer’s designer.
The collection also included subtly intriguing accessories such as whimsical, cloud-like fabric bracelets, Joaneta sneakers developed in collaboration with Barcelona-based Aro, and a partnership with Tuscan shoemaker Strulini that resulted in ultra-flat, sky blue Oxfords, whipstitched canvas booties, and suede “sock” moccasins.
