Helmut Lang’s Legacy Shines in New Exhibition at MAK in Vienna
The fashion world is abuzz with excitement as Helmut Lang, the much-missed designer, takes center stage in a new exhibition at MAK in Vienna. As part of Vogue Runway’s dedication to preserving the history of fashion shows, we are thrilled to announce the addition of the Fall 1997 ready-to-wear collection to our site. This collection was presented in Paris on March 13, 1997, and remains a groundbreaking moment in fashion history.
In 1997, Paris fashion was undergoing a transformation, with designers like Alexander McQueen and John Galliano bringing a new emphasis on backstory, references, and biography to the runway. However, Helmut Lang remained an outlier, focusing on the art of clothes making, fabric selection, and manipulation. While his shows were steeped in narrative, they also exuded a sense of mystery and intrigue.
The Fall 1997 collection opened with model Kirsten Owen wearing a nubby ivory car coat, a piece that Vogue hailed as a must-have item of the season. Underneath the coat, she sported a white jersey top that gathered into loose folds at the waist, showcasing Lang’s mastery of draping and silhouette. The collection also featured cummerbunds and harnesses, borrowed from men’s formalwear and reimagined for everyday wear.
Lang’s use of wrapping and protection was a recurring theme throughout the collection. Bands that encircled the waist and arms hinted at a delicate balance between bondage and embrace. The designer’s manipulation of elastic and draping created a sense of fluidity and movement, blurring the lines between clothing and sculpture. The addition of floating tulle and duvet pieces added a whimsical touch, with one reviewer likening them to “angel wings.”
Overall, Helmut Lang’s Fall 1997 collection was a testament to his innovative approach to fashion and his ability to push boundaries. With the exhibition at MAK in Vienna, fashion enthusiasts have the opportunity to delve into the designer’s unique vision and creative genius. Don’t miss this opportunity to experience the magic of Helmut Lang’s iconic designs.
