“What can I say? The produce is simply exceptional here,” remarks cookbook author and food stylist Diana Yen as we settle into her sleek black Jeep the morning after an unforgettable dinner. “Even in Los Angeles, much of the produce originates from here.” In the midst of the pandemic, Yen vacated her Brooklyn Heights apartment and embraced a temporary retreat at the Ojai hideaway of her close friend, stylist Cathy Hahn. That was five years ago. “We enjoy abundant sunshine and are near the coast, which I suppose is the secret to our success,” she notes, easing to a stop at Earthtrine Farm, her favorite source for fresh produce.
Just a short five-minute drive from downtown, rows of vibrant chard and crisp lettuce shine under the bright California sun. Beyond the vegetable plots, the landscape is awash with citrus and avocado trees. Yen strolls to the farmstead, selecting a bunch of arugula and a box of large figs while I stock up on oranges and clementines. They are as sweet and sticky as candy.
In the days that follow, I attempt, and completely fail, to find a meal or snack that doesn’t make my heart race. Serge Becker, the nightlife and design maven behind many renowned venues in New York, has taken note of Ojai’s allure and recently launched Radio Roma, a tiny mezcal bar styled as a “listening room” that serves exquisitely seasoned tacos into the early hours. After a strenuous hike, I wind down at Three Birds cafe and opt for a glass of locally brewed kombucha. It’s a lot more subtle and refreshing compared to the bottled version I gulp down back home.
Only last spring, Spanish chef Perfecte Rocher was living in Los Angeles, searching for a restaurant space in the Hudson Valley when a unique opportunity caught his attention. A sprawling 15,000 square foot restaurant, once frequented by Marlon Brando and John Lennon, was lying vacant in a lush Ojai garden. Without hesitation, Perfecte’s family packed up and relocated, and Rochers at the Ranch House, the upscale restaurant he launched with his wife Alia, was up and running in just four months.
