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A few years back, Gwich’in jeweler Tania Larsson was searching for materials to craft new pieces. Specifically, Larsson sought dentalium shells—elongated, tubular shells from dentaliums, a type of marine mollusk. The issue arose when Larsson found that all her usual suppliers, including various trading outlets, were exhausted of these increasingly scarce shells. Then, she received a call: one seller had a good selection available. Without hesitation, the artist asked, “Can I buy them all?”
Within Indigenous fashion culture, dentalium shells—characterized by their tusk-like shape and creamy white color—hold value comparable to diamonds, if not exceeding it, due to their rarity. “The most prized shells I possess are antique ones from North America; they are thick and lengthy,” Larsson notes. “Such shells are truly one-in-a-million.” Their value is not simply about scarcity; dentaliums are also cherished for their unique histories and deep significances.
This raises a pertinent question: Where do these shells originate, and why are they held in higher regard than other precious stones?
Brittany Woods-Orrison (Koyukon Dené) sports beaded dentalium shell earrings in Alaska.
Photograph by Carlos Jaramillo.
Rodney Evans (Koyukon Dené, Inupiaq, and Gwich’in) is seen wearing a beaded dentalium shell necklace in Alaska.
Photograph by Carlos Jaramillo.
For centuries, Indigenous communities throughout North America have esteemed dentalium shells as cherished items. The use of these shells to craft Indigenous clothing and jewelry predates the arrival of Europeans; they were particularly embraced by the tribes in the Pacific Northwest, notably the Kwakwaka’wakw and the Nuu-chah-nulth, who had easy access to the sea for harvesting the shells. Over time, Indigenous trade networks spread these shells across vast distances, from the Pacific Ocean into the Great Plains, where they were traded with tribes like the Lakota and Ojibwe, who then incorporated the shells into their adornments and even used them as currency.
Dentalium earrings designed by Tania Larsson. “Dentalium shells are conversation starters,” she shares. “When you wear them, passersby will often inquire about them. No one stops me when I’m wearing a diamond ring.”
Photo: Courtesy of Tania Larsson
The shells were primarily valued for their distinct beauty. Dentalium shells are utilized (and continue to be) as ornamental embellishments on capes, dresses, headdresses, and jewelry—particularly on regalia designed for traditional powwows and ceremonies. The presence of dentaliums often served to symbolize wealth: the more shells one possessed, the greater respect and nobility they commanded within their community. “Displaying wealth was not about greed; it was an indication of generosity, as rare items like dentaliums were gifted for good deeds,” Larsson explains.
Pieces of dentalium shells displayed at the 2023 Santa Fe Indian Market.
Photographed by Shayla Blatchford
A variety of dentalium shells seen at the 2019 Santa Fe Indian Market.
Photographed by Shayla Blatchford
Dentalium shell pieces showcased at the 2023 Santa Fe Indian Market.
Photographed by Shayla Blatchford
Quannah Chasinghorse showcases dentalium shell jewelry at the 2022 Santa Fe Indian Market.
Photographed by Shayla Blatchford
This reverence for shells—symbolizing pride and cultural significance—has endured. Currently, the shells are still prevalent on powwow regalia (Russell McCloud is a sought-after artisan for traditional breastplates) as well as being incorporated into avant-garde runway designs and high-end jewelry. Artisans such as Larsson, Jamie Okuma, and Keri Ataumbi create stunning dentalium jewelry in innovative forms while still honoring the shells’ traditional value. “Even with our modern capabilities, they remain a very uncommon material,” explains Okuma, known for her tiered dentalium earrings frequently worn by stars on the red carpet, including Lily Gladstone. “You don’t simply come across them washed up on beaches.” (Due to climate change and changing oceanic conditions, dentalium populations have begun migrating to the Arabian Sea.)
Lily Gladstone wears dentalium shell earrings crafted by Jamie Okuma at the 2023 Cannes Film Festival.
Photo: Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images
Dentalium shell earrings designed by Jamie Okuma, worn by Lily Gladstone at the 2023 Cannes Film Festival.
Photo: Courtesy of Jamie Okuma
In the contemporary context, if one can obtain dentalium shells locally, their value is determined by specifics such as age, patina, length, thickness, and smoothness. “Each shell is unique—some might be beautiful due to their size, while others for their shine,” Ataumbi remarks. (Certain shells even display a greenish tint.) Dentalium shells can fetch hundreds of dollars per pound or even exceed $50 for a single shell.
Jeweler Keri Ataumbi diligently crafts using dentalium shells.
Video: Courtesy of Keri Ataumbi
Due to the rarity of securing desirable shells, many artists keep their sources confidential, using the shells sparingly and with purposeful intent. “It’s a scarce material,” Okuma comments. “The dentaliums I’m currently using are from someone’s collection from roughly 20 years ago, which I acquired about a decade ago.” Ataumbi also regards her dentaliums as reserved for special pieces. “I still possess shells my mother utilized in her sewing; I will employ them only for family pieces,” she recounts. “Those shells are distinctly different from contemporary options: they exhibit a beautiful luster, and their shell walls are quite thick.”
Keri Ataumbi’s mother, Jeri Ah-be-hill, is adorned with dentaliums in 1968. “My earliest memories of these shells involve sitting on my mother’s lap, grazing my fingers along the shells stitched together to form her Southern Cheyenne dress cape,” Ataumbi recollects.
Photo: Courtesy of Keri Ataumbi
Innovation flourishes amidst the scarcity of dentaliums. When artists incorporate these shells into their works, they ensure their significance, resulting in stunning final products. Ataumbi merges dentaliums with luxurious jewelry components such as diamonds and premium gold. “In my perspective as a Native artist, all three materials hold equal value,” Ataumbi remarks. “By melding the shells with high-carat gold and diamonds, the creations highlight our multifaceted value systems and forge bonds between us.” Larsson has designed dentalium harnesses fused with bison horn; Indigenous brands like House of Sutai and Copper Canoe Woman have innovatively crafted body chains and headpieces. Recently, Okuma unveiled a dentalium dress at the 2025 Santa Fe Indian Market. “I’ve contemplated this for years,” Okuma states. “Shells are inherently sculptural, making them perfectly suited for a dress. It feels incredibly Native while also modern. The dress embodies our contemporary existence.”
A stunning dress crafted from dentalium shells by Jamie Okuma.
Photo: Cameron Linton
Okuma’s use of shells conveys a broader trend emerging in Native fashion, where designers express their interconnectedness with organic materials and nature. “Our relationship with materials is tangible, and for many, there’s a clear ancestral and environmental connection,” Ataumbi remarks.
Larsson reinforces this idea, highlighting that for numerous individuals—both the creators and wearers of dentalium pieces—the shells symbolize the continuance of tradition and serve to preserve culture. “These materials enshrine history and memories,” states Larsson. “By adorning ourselves with them, we emphasize the significance of value and the true essence of wealth in our traditional narratives.” And, purely from an aesthetic perspective, they are undeniably beautiful—an added advantage. “They are sure to attract attention,” Larsson asserts. “When worn, people will approach you to ask about it. You won’t receive any queries while flaunting a diamond ring.”
