In the Native Fashion World, Dentalium Shells Are Worth More Than Diamonds

A few years back, Gwich’in jeweler Tania Larsson was searching for materials to craft new pieces. Specifically, Larsson sought dentalium shells—elongated, tubular shells from dentaliums, a type of marine mollusk. The issue arose when Larsson found that all her usual suppliers, including various trading outlets, were exhausted of these increasingly scarce shells. Then, she received a call: one seller had a good selection available. Without hesitation, the artist asked, “Can I buy them all?”

Within Indigenous fashion culture, dentalium shells—characterized by their tusk-like shape and creamy white color—hold value comparable to diamonds, if not exceeding it, due to their rarity. “The most prized shells I possess are antique ones from North America; they are thick and lengthy,” Larsson notes. “Such shells are truly one-in-a-million.” Their value is not simply about scarcity; dentaliums are also cherished for their unique histories and deep significances.

This raises a pertinent question: Where do these shells originate, and why are they held in higher regard than other precious stones?

The shells were primarily valued for their distinct beauty. Dentalium shells are utilized (and continue to be) as ornamental embellishments on capes, dresses, headdresses, and jewelry—particularly on regalia designed for traditional powwows and ceremonies. The presence of dentaliums often served to symbolize wealth: the more shells one possessed, the greater respect and nobility they commanded within their community. “Displaying wealth was not about greed; it was an indication of generosity, as rare items like dentaliums were gifted for good deeds,” Larsson explains.

Innovation flourishes amidst the scarcity of dentaliums. When artists incorporate these shells into their works, they ensure their significance, resulting in stunning final products. Ataumbi merges dentaliums with luxurious jewelry components such as diamonds and premium gold. “In my perspective as a Native artist, all three materials hold equal value,” Ataumbi remarks. “By melding the shells with high-carat gold and diamonds, the creations highlight our multifaceted value systems and forge bonds between us.” Larsson has designed dentalium harnesses fused with bison horn; Indigenous brands like House of Sutai and Copper Canoe Woman have innovatively crafted body chains and headpieces. Recently, Okuma unveiled a dentalium dress at the 2025 Santa Fe Indian Market. “I’ve contemplated this for years,” Okuma states. “Shells are inherently sculptural, making them perfectly suited for a dress. It feels incredibly Native while also modern. The dress embodies our contemporary existence.”

Okuma’s use of shells conveys a broader trend emerging in Native fashion, where designers express their interconnectedness with organic materials and nature. “Our relationship with materials is tangible, and for many, there’s a clear ancestral and environmental connection,” Ataumbi remarks.

Larsson reinforces this idea, highlighting that for numerous individuals—both the creators and wearers of dentalium pieces—the shells symbolize the continuance of tradition and serve to preserve culture. “These materials enshrine history and memories,” states Larsson. “By adorning ourselves with them, we emphasize the significance of value and the true essence of wealth in our traditional narratives.” And, purely from an aesthetic perspective, they are undeniably beautiful—an added advantage. “They are sure to attract attention,” Larsson asserts. “When worn, people will approach you to ask about it. You won’t receive any queries while flaunting a diamond ring.”