“For us, this presents an incredible chance to unveil our fashion department with potentially one of the finest collections in the world, if not the finest and the most extensive,” Paul Viguier, deputy director of Piasa, remarked. Possessing the quintessential characteristics of a Frenchman, he flaunts slicked-back hair, pronounced brows, and colorful scarves tied snugly around his neck. I encountered him taking a puff outside the auction house. “We stress that it’s primarily about the designers and their creations, not merely about fashion,” he emphasized. “We aren’t concerned with practicalities like wearability or size. The focus is on the piece as an artistic entity. Just like with chairs, comfort is irrelevant; our collectors invest in these works and incorporate them into their lives, even after spending €200,000 or €300,000 on them.”
Upon examining one of the iconic Lumps and Bumps dresses featured in the auction, it becomes apparent that such items can easily be classified as art. Yet, one must remember that Kawakubo has consistently maintained that her creations are simply clothing.
The auction commenced modestly, opening with handknit sweaters from the early ’80s and straightforward wool jackets from the brand, fetching prices between $250 and $400. True bargains! Stepping into the Comme des Garçons boutique on Rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honoré, just a short walk from Piasa, it’s unlikely to find anything priced that affordably, aside from perhaps a fragrance, wallet, or a minor accessory from one of the diffusion lines.
“Many private collectors are expected to come and snag a couple of pieces they’ll actually wear,” Viguier noted. “I think people are coming to understand that for just a few hundred euros, they can acquire a museum-quality piece—a slice of history.”
