Iris Van Herpen and her latest collaborator, Chris Bellamy, offered a sneak peek of their latest creation as fittings were underway on Saturday. The dress and legging ensemble, like an otherworldly specimen, were carefully displayed in a box illuminated with light at the exact wavelength where the algae used in the design are found 50 meters below sea level. A cloud of cold steam added to the mystical ambiance surrounding the attire.
The dimensional pattern of the outfit, when not illuminated, appeared milky white with a hint of blue, reminiscent of glow-in-the-dark stickers with a greenish hue. The algae used in the creation, pyrocystis lunula, have their own light cycles similar to Circadian rhythms in humans. In their natural habitat, these microorganisms emit light in response to movement or perceived threats. The model chosen to showcase this unique ensemble has yet to be revealed, raising questions about how the garment will interact with light.
Van Herpen and Bellamy shared how their collaboration began in February, two years after Bellamy initiated his research in French Polynesia. Bellamy meticulously cultivated an algae farm, where the microorganisms multiplied in seawater under controlled light conditions. The algae were then transformed into a seaweed nutrient gel, tested in over 50 variations to achieve the desired texture, color, and balance. The custom molds were coated with a breathable membrane, allowing the algae to thrive and emit light. The University of Amsterdam and the Francis Crick Institute supported this intricate process, resulting in a successful outcome about a month ago.
The garments are now stored in conditions mirroring the algae’s natural habitat, ensuring optimal temperature, light, humidity, and rhythm for continued growth and illumination. As the organisms reproduce within the garment forms, the dress gradually becomes brighter. Bellamy reassured that there is no unpleasant odor associated with the attire, only a faint scent of seawater lingering in the air.
The innovative fusion of fashion and science in this project demonstrates Van Herpen’s commitment to pushing boundaries and exploring new possibilities in design. This groundbreaking creation is a testament to the endless potential of interdisciplinary collaborations in the realm of haute couture.
