Jewelry has always held a special place in art, allowing artists to convey messages of power, status, and personal identity through the adornment of their subjects. In the book “Beyond Adornment: Jewelry and Identity in Art” by Yvonne J. Markowitz and Susanne Gänsicke, the intricate relationship between jewelry and art is explored in depth.
One fascinating example discussed in the book is the portrayal of Charlemagne wearing a crown in Albrecht Dürer’s painting. While the crown depicted did not exist until long after Charlemagne’s time, its symbolism of power and divine legitimacy was a key element in the artist’s narrative. This manipulation of historical accuracy to create a compelling story is a recurring theme throughout the book.
The discussion also delves into the world of Archaeological Revival jewelry, where European and American pieces from the 18th and 19th centuries sought to recreate ancient styles. An intriguing example is the portrait of Enid, Lady Layard, who wore jewelry made from ancient cylinder seals found in excavations at Nineveh. The jewelry not only adorned the wearer but also served to highlight her husband’s accomplishments as an Assyriologist.
The book goes on to question the very definition of jewelry, using Frida Kahlo’s painting “Self-Portrait with Thorn Necklace and Hummingbird” as a case study. The symbolism of the jewelry in the painting, such as a dead hummingbird symbolizing the end of her marriage, challenges traditional notions of adornment and its deeper meanings.
The closing chapter of the book, led by Emily Stoehrer, MFA Boston’s senior curator of Jewelry, delves into jewelry from a sociological and material culture perspective. This chapter not only provides a satisfying conclusion to the book but also makes a compelling case for further exploration of “jewelry theory” as a valuable field of study.
“Beyond Adornment: Jewelry and Identity in Art” is a thought-provoking exploration of the intricate relationship between jewelry and art. It challenges traditional notions of adornment and invites readers to consider the deeper meanings behind the jewelry depicted in artworks. The book is a valuable contribution to the study of jewelry theory and is available for purchase online and through independent booksellers.
