The Power of Aura: Julie Kegels’ Fall Show

‘Aura’ has become a popular term in internet culture recently, but for LVMH Prize semi-finalist Julie Kegels, it goes beyond just a trend. In her aura-inspired fall show, Kegels explores the idea of how clothes can alter the perception of an individual.

Her inspiration stemmed from Andy Warhol’s book, The Philosophy of Andy Warhol (From A to B and Back Again), where he famously stated that everyone has a certain aura until they speak. Kegels found this concept intriguing, especially in our current era of constant visibility. She wanted to delve into the idea of how clothing can act as a shield, concealing the true essence of a person.

To bring this concept to life, Kegels delved into the realm of shadows as a representation of one’s aura, something that can be manipulated by the design and cut of clothing. During the show, models’ shadows were projected behind them, at times behaving erratically to showcase that things are not always as they appear. This playful manipulation of shadows added a layer of imperfection and humor to the collection.

Kegels drew inspiration from Korean artist Kyungwoo Chun, who captures portraits over an extended period, resulting in blurred images that reflect a person’s aura without revealing their face.

The collection featured a darker palette than Kegels’ usual style, with longer and more austere silhouettes. Experimenting with shadows before constructing tailored pieces, Kegels observed how shadow form can distort garments. This experimentation translated into wonky skirts with curved thigh slits and jackets with rounded sleeves, creating an illusion of confidence.

To enhance the aura concept, Kegels incorporated details like shifted armholes, wool-lined collars, and raw-cut leather shoes and caps in bold colors. Some dresses featured bubble-like capes at the back, symbolizing a protective double of the garment that follows the wearer.

In a nod to her previous season’s magician-inspired quick change looks, Kegels presented a series of looks that interacted with each other on the runway, creating optical illusions. A model carried white bags and hat boxes, followed by a coat that mimicked their shapes in shadow form. The finale featured a silk dress with the imprint of a previous look, showcasing the complexity of perception.